Sunday, July 31, 2011

Sunday, July 31, 1994 - Nantucket

An even more beautiful day than yesterday, if that's possible. Blue sky, fluffy white clouds, warm sun, gentle breeze, warm water. A perfect day to put on a swimsuit and go paddling.
Roy wanted to repair the generator, which was hanging up again, so he started on that right after breakfast. I packed a lunch for both of us and took off in my Royak, figuring he'd have no problem catching up with me when he was through with the generator. I showed him on the map which way I was going and told him I'd be exploring every creek, inlet, and whatnot I came to.
I paddled to Coatue and followed its curving shoreline, stopping whenever I saw something interesting. It was after one o'clock when I reached the next-to-last point, so I pulled up on the beach, went for a swim, and ate lunch. I kept scanning the horizon for white paddles going up and down, but didn't see any.
After lunch, I went over to Coskata Pond and explored it. The tide was out, so I couldn't get all the way into it, but I saw most of it. Then I paddled to Wauwinet and back along the south shore, as I'd told Roy I would. Still no sign of him, so I figured he was either still working on the generator or taking a nap. Stopped along the way for another swim in water that was actually hot, and then headed for the boat. Got there a few minutes to seven. Roy said he had just gotten back a few minutes previously. He had paddled to the end of the harbor looking for me, but he came back by way of Coatue, so he missed me.

Saturday, July 30, 2011

Saturday, July 30, 1994 - Nantucket

Paddled to town and visited the Foulger Museum. It was the least interesting of the places we've seen so far. It had a small exhibit on Nantucket's trade with China, and that was it.
Bought a few groceries, returned to the boat, ate lunch, and went paddling. Perfect day for being out on the water. The wind had died down considerably, the sun was shining, the temperature was just right.
We wanted to visit the Life Saving Museum, so we paddled along the southern shore of the harbor to Polpis. Couldn't see the building from the water, so I asked someone, and she told me how to get there. It was just a short walk. The museum was small but interesting. It's supposed to be a replica of the Life Saving Station at Surfside, which is now an AYH hostel. That's where we stayed a couple of weeks ago.
The tide was still coming in when we returned to our Royaks, so we paddled over to Pocomo Head, where there's a high sandy bluff that I used to slide down when I was a kid. I went for a swim, but Roy thought the water was dirty, so he didn't. Actually, it just had a lot of seaweed in it.
Returned by way of Coatue, which is a long, narrow strip of sand protecting the northern side of the harbor. It is now a bird sanctuary, so I was surprised to see a few houses there. We stopped and talked with one of the owners. He explained that the houses had been built before Coatue became a sanctuary. The owners are allowed to keep and maintain their houses, but no new houses can be built.
Enjoyed an exhilarating paddle back to the boat against the wind. Got there around seven. It had been a fun day.
I feel as if I've come home again.

Friday, July 29, 2011

Friday, July 29, 1994 - Nantucket


Still blowing this morning. We paddled back to the same beach. This time, Roy very carefully chained the Royaks to the fence, first making sure he had the key.
We walked to the Congregational Church, which lets people go up in its tower. It was a clear, sunny day, so we had a terrific view in every direction. Could see the Jofian sitting at anchor.
Next we went to the Oldest House, which was built in 1686. It had been badly damaged by lightning in 1989, but has since been faithfully restored. It looked much the way I remembered it from my childhood.
We returned to town, ate lunch at Congdon's, and then visited the Athenaeum and the Whaling Museum. A docent at the Whaling Museum gave a very descriptive lecture on whaling.
We went to the steamship wharf, where the large ferries come in. It has changed considerably in the past fifty years. There were some photographs in the Steamship Authority building of the old ferries that I had been on.
Bought a few groceries and returned to the Royaks. The wind had died down, the sun was shining, the sky was blue. Everything was beautiful, except Roy hadn't dumped the trash he'd brought over in the morning, so he had to go looking for a trash can. I paddled around nearby until he returned and then headed for the Jofian. Very easy and pleasant with no wind. Two more sailboats have anchored near us.

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Thursday, July 28, 1994 - Nantucket

Woke up to a great sou'wes'er. Surprising for this time of year. Usually, the storms don't begin until September. The wind blew 20-30 knots all day, and there were a lot of whitecaps. I didn't think I could paddle against the wind, so we spent several hours trying to decide whether to paddle to town or call a water taxi. In the meantime, I entered the waypoints and route to Maine into the GPS.
Ate the rest of the sandwiches for lunch. The wind was still blowing strong, but our anchor was holding. We decided to call a water taxi, but when I talked with them on the VHF, I found out they charge $3 a ride for people at a mooring and $4 a ride for people at anchor, so I told them to forget it. That would have been $16 round trip for Roy and me.
Paddling against the wind was a struggle, at least for me. Roy had no problem, but it took all my strength. It was great fun, though.
I had thought we would go to the same beach we went to yesterday. In order to avoid being blown out the channel to the ocean, I planned on paddling towards town until I was past the beach and then blowing over to it, but Roy kept going towards town, so I tried to follow him. Eventually, he disappeared behind a dock. By the time I reached the dock, he was nowhere in sight. It was calm in there, so I headed for the beach and soon saw his Royak. He had pulled up on the beach where the kayak-rental place is and was talking with the son of the owner about Royaks. The son seemed quite interested and told Roy to come back tomorrow and talk with his father. I pulled up on the same beach. The young man said we could leave our Royaks there, and he'd keep an eye on them.
Roy had brought his backpack, but he decided to leave it in his Royak. He had also brought a chain and padlock for the Royaks, but he thought the young man might be insulted if he chained the Royaks after he had said he'd keep an eye on them, so Roy didn't use the chain, but he put the padlock on the compartment hatch of his Royak. I left mine unlocked.
We spent an interesting two hours at the Nantucket Historical Museum. We were surprised to learn that Nantucket appeared out of the sea only 5000 years ago when the glaciers retreated, and if the present warming trend continues, Nantucket will again disappear beneath the sea in a mere 2000 years from now.
When we left the museum, we walked across the street to the A & P and bought some groceries. Then we returned to the Royaks.
It wasn't until we got back to the Royaks that Roy realized with dismay that he had left the key to the padlock in his backpack, which was locked inside the compartment. The extra key was also in the backpack. His paddle and cushion were also, of course, in the compartment. What a dilemma! He solved the problem by borrowing my Royak, paddle, and cushion, paddling back to the Jofian, and getting the bolt-cutters. The round-trip took forty minutes, and the return was especially difficult against 30-knot winds. In the meantime, I sat on the beach in the rain. Fortunately, I was wearing my bathing suit. When he finally got back, it only took a second to cut off the padlock. We blew back to the Jofian very easily.

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Wednesday, July 27, 1994 - Nantucket

There was quite a thunderstorm last night, but I slept through most of it. I was just barely aware of brightly flashing lightning, booming thunder, howling wind, and lashing rain. Always did enjoy a good storm in Nantucket.
Got nearly twelve hours' sleep, and now I feel fine. Roy didn't get up until nine!
After breakfast, we paddled to Brant Point and pulled our Royaks up on the beach. Walked a few blocks to town. I phoned Jane Burt Kolb, and she invited us to her house at 2:15.
We went back to the Registry of Deeds and went through old records. Found out Olivia Elphinstone bought Aunty Margarethe's Monomoy property 8/12/59 for $50,000. We were amazed how much land Aunty Margarethe owned. Acres and acres. I knew she owned a lot, but I didn't realize how much. She must have owned nearly half of Monomoy. Her "guardian", the Rhode Island Hospital Trust Company, obtained permission from the Probate Court 3/12/59 to sell the property for her maintenance. In 1959, I was working as a bookkeeper for Garo Showcase and Fixture Company in Fresno for $100 a week. Even if I'd known the property was for sale, I couldn't have come up with a fraction of the down payment.
I was also surprised to learn that Aunty Margarethe bought the property in 1908, when she was 36. I had always assumed she had been going there since childhood and had inherited it from her parents. She purchased the property from James H. Gibbs and the Coleman Family. Charlotte Gibbs bought it from Emma Cook 3/2/99, and Charlotte left it to her husband James 10/11/1900. The handwritten records are all there. The land was surveyed by William F. Codd 1/5/1889. Aunty Margarethe kept adding to her property. She was still buying land in 1937 and 1941. I remember those two purchases. She owned the land in front of her houses to the high-water mark, but some con artist found out he could buy the land between the high-water mark and the low-water mark, so he did so and threatened to erect ugly structures on it if Aunty Margarethe didn't pay him an exorbitant amount for it. That was in 1937. In 1941, she purchased the old Prentice place. She was going to fix up the house and rent it out but never did so to my knowledge.
What a terrible mistake Aunty Margarethe made when she sent me to Antioch College! All through highschool, I had planned on attending Pembroke, which was the girls' college of Ivy-League Brown University in Providence. It was just a few blocks from where I lived. I would have lived at home and walked or ridden my bike to school. I wanted to major in French and minor in German. My cherished dream was to live on Nantucket Island and translate books from French and German into English. Aunty Margarethe wiped out all my plans and dreams when she shipped me off to Antioch, which didn't even have a Foreign Language Department. Looking back from the vantage point of old age, I realize I could have flatly refused to go to Antioch. I could probably have gotten a scholarship at Pembroke, or I could have worked my way through. Tuition then was only about $400 a year, and I had more than $1000 in the bank. I could have made it. But I'd been brought up to be obedient, so I obeyed. All I heard at home was: "You have to do what Aunty Margarethe says." Why? Why did I have to do what Aunty Margarethe said? She wasn't related to me, and as far as I know, she wasn't my legal guardian. My dying mother had asked her to look after me, but I don't think there was anything in writing. To the best of my knowledge, Daddy was my legal guardian, but he never recovered from my Mother's death and was scarcely able to function. He'd have probably killed himself if he hadn't had me to take care of.
When Aunty Margarethe sent me to Antioch, her intentions were the best. She loved me and wanted to do what was right for me. She really believed Antioch was the best college for me and wouldn't even listen to me when I told her I didn't want to go there. It's ironic that her good intentions ultimately resulted in the destruction of her beloved Nantucket cottages.
"Of all sad words of tongue or pen,
the saddest are these: It might have been."

Roy and I ate lunch at Congdon's Pharmacy and then walked over to Jane's house. She turned out to be a lot nicer than I had remembered her. We talked for a couple of hours. Then her husband came in from playing golf. He was very nice, too. They have to return to Illinois this weekend and had a lot of packing to do, so we left.
We paddled over to the creeks where I used to row my little boat, Bluebird. The configuration of the creeks changes every year, and a great many houses have been built around the edges of the creeks where there were no houses at all fifty years ago. I was disappointed to see how murky the water has become. When I was a kid, the water was so clear, I could count the pebbles on the bottom and watch blue-claw crabs running around. Once, I even caught one. Now I couldn't see more than two feet down.
We paddled around the creeks for a couple of hours. Returned to the boat just as the sun was setting.

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Tuesday, July 26, 1994 - Nantucket

Enjoyed a perfect sail to Nantucket. The wind was 15-20 knots out of the southwest, so it was just right. We were able to sail almost the entire way, except for the Woods Hole Passage and the final approach to Nantucket. The Woods Hole Passage is a narrow, twisting channel with sharp turns, confusing channel markers, many nearby rocks, and powerful currents and eddies. Roy took down the sails, started the engine, and took the wheel, even though it was my watch. He got us through safely.
It was 45 miles from New Bedford to Nantucket. We arrived shortly before six and dropped anchor at the outer edge of the general anchorage. So now I have fulfilled my childhood dream of sailing into Nantucket Harbor and dropping anchor!
When I was a kid, it was unusual to have two yachts in the harbor at the same time. Now there are scores. Maybe hundreds.
I felt as if I were coming down with a cold, so I went to bed right after supper. Roy washed the dishes.

Monday, July 25, 2011

Monday, July 25, 1994 - New Bedford, MA

Roy and I went up to the Gear Locker and bought a good chart of Portland Harbor. Found out Marilyn's message was "blueberry muffins", not "blueberry pie".
Rode my bike to the post office and mailed Steve's birthday present. No mail in General Delivery, so I guess Kathy didn't send any. Maybe she didn't get my last message. Went on over to the grocery store and bought a few things.
Marilyn and Don arrived punctually at 11:30. Found out Marilyn had said "chicken salad sandwiches", not "chicken salad", so now we have a surplus of sandwiches. That's better than not enough.
Went through the 12:15 bridge opening and motored out the channel. Rounded the point where Fort Rodman is and dropped anchor. Ate our delicious lunch. Then we raised the sails and sailed for the rest of the afternoon. The breeze was about ten or twelve knots out of the southwest, so it was just right. The temperature was pleasant, too. There was some fog, but not too bad. All in all, a very nice day.