Monday, November 7, 1994 - New Haven, CT

A lovely, clear, brisk autumn day. Great for walking but not the greatest for swimming. Nevertheless, Roy had to get into his neoprene coveralls and jump in the water. He had noticed when we were in New Bedford that the perry-nut zinc was nearly gone, and he'd been trying to get up the courage to replace it ever since. This morning, the tide had gone out so far that we were sitting in less than four feet of water, so it was an ideal opportunity. He didn't really have to dive; he could stand on the bottom and squat, which helped a lot. But the water was so murky, he couldn't even see the propeller until he had his nose right on it. It was a struggle, but eventually he got the new zinc in place.
After breakfast, he walked up to the dockmaster's office to pay for last night and tonight. If the plunge into the icy water had been a shock, the rates were more so. TWO DOLLARS A FOOT! Unreal! And this is a long way from being a first-class marina. I'd classify it as less than mediocre. Usually we find out the rates before we tie up, but yesterday we couldn't because there was no one in the office, but there aren't any expensive-looking boats here, so we figured it would be $1 a foot a less. Roy managed to talk the dockmaster down to $1.50 a foot, plus $4 for the nickel's worth of electricity we'll use, but that's still outrageous. It costs as much for two nights here as it did for a month at the Gear Locker, but with 40-knot winds on the Sound, we don't have much choice.
After paying the king's ransom for the dock space, we started walking up the street to look for a bus stop. We'd only gone a couple of blocks when a guy in a car offered us a ride. He works downtown but comes out to the marina to eat lunch, because he loves boats. He had talked with Roy for a few minutes when Roy was going to the dock-
master's office and had admired the Jofian from a distance. Now he was on his way back to work, so he offered to drive us, and we were happy to accept. On the way downtown, he provided us with a lot of information about New Haven.
Even though Roy and I grew up in New York and New England, we had never been to New Haven, except passing through on a train or the Boston Post Road, so it was all new to us. We hadn't even known that Yale is right in downtown New Haven; we had assumed it was out in the country someplace. But the magnificent university, with its wonderful architecture, is adjacent to the Village Green, which is the heart of the city of New Haven. The buildings resemble medieval cathedrals. They are of varicolored stone, with towers and parapets and massive wooden doors and intricate stone carvings. We wandered around the campus, gaping in awe. Tuition at Yale is now $28,000 a year, and no wonder, with all these beautiful buildings to maintain. Later, a bus driver told us that Yale had been modeled after Cambridge University in England.
We ate lunch at a nearby restaurant that had been recommended by the man who drove us downtown. From the outside, it looked expensive, but it turned out to be remarkably reasonable. We both had crab-salad sandwiches and strawberry shakes for less than $10 for the two of us. The place had obviously been a popular student hangout for generations; every inch of the wooden table-tops and most of the wooden walls had names carved in them.
We walked around a little more and then hopped on the first bus that came along. Rode to the end of the line and back. Then we transferred to another bus that took us way out into the country. By then, it was getting dark, so we returned to downtown New Haven and walked around trying to find the stop for the bus that would take us back to the marina. Luckily, we found the stop minutes before the bus arrived. They only run once an hour, so we'd have had a long wait for the next one. The bus took us within a block of the marina, and we were back on the boat before 6:30.

Sunday, November 6, 1994 - New Haven, CT

Enjoyed a very calm night, but gale winds are predicted for tomorrow night and Monday. We'd like to get to New Haven today, but might have to pull into a harbor before then, if the wind kicks up.
Jofian had swung over towards a big rock and was in six feet of water, so we pulled up the anchor and took off before breakfast. Ate along the way.
The wind picked up as the day went on, but it was a favorable sailing wind, and apparently we had the tidal current in our favor, too, so we zoomed along at more than seven knots. Reached New Haven before three o'clock, which was fortunate, because we weren't sure where to go. If it had been dark, we'd have had to drop anchor wherever we were, but with daylight we eventually found a marina and tied to a dock. The marina office was closed, so we weren't able to get a key or hook up the electricity, but at least we have a sheltered place to stay.
There are no grocery stores within walking distance, so a very nice woman on the next boat drove me to a super market and back. She has lived on her boat for about six months. Her name is Ruth, and she's a pediatrician in residency here.

Saturday, November 5, 1994 - Fisher's Island, RI

Sort of a weird day. Had no trouble leaving the dock early in the morning, but right off we discovered the GPS receiver in the cockpit didn't work. Roy thought we'd have to send it back to the factory for repairs, but after reading the manual, I concluded it probably only needed new batteries. Roy didn't think that could be the problem, because we've been running it off the boat batteries. The Loran has needed a new battery for a long time, so it doesn't work either. Roy was about ready to turn around and return to Newport, but luckily the old GPS receiver still works, so we used it.
The wind was dead against us most of the way, so we had to motor. The waves were really slamming us, too. Slowed us down quite a bit, so instead of proceeding to the Connecticut River as we had planned, we dropped anchor in the cove at Fisher's Island. On the way around the end of the island, we passed three consecutive red buoys, all numbered "2". Not the least bit confusing, of course.
When we got settled down, Roy got out his handy-dandy volt-
ammeter and checked the batteries in the GPS. Sure enough, they were very low. He replaced them, and Bingo! the GPS worked good as new. What a relief that is! He also checked the batteries in the old GPS. They were on their last legs, so he replaced them also. It's a wonder the GPS kept running as long as it did.

Friday, November 4, 1994 - Newport, RI

We lucked out. Beautiful sunny day today. We left at quarter to six and reached Newport around three. Had a great sail part of the way, but then had to use the engine. We're actually on our way!
Frank's wife drove to Newport to pick him up. Roy wanted to take the new diesel heater that he'd shipped from California and that had been bent out of shape in transit to a West Marine store to see if they'd exchange it. Frank drove us over there and back in his wife's car. Sure enough, West Marine gave us a brand new heater without batting an eye. They certainly have an excellent exchange policy.

Thursday, November 3, 1994 - New Bedford, MA

Beautiful, warm, sunny day, but still windy. I took the bus into Providence and learned a few more things. Found out Frank Mauran bought the Dorr Mansion from the Providence Preservation Society, so apparently, Aunty Margarethe sold or gave it to the Society.
Also wandered around the beautiful, magnificent Brown University campus and envied the students. If it hadn't been for Aunty Margarethe, that's where I would have gone.
I'd been wanting to buy a book in French, so I could relearn the language, but I hadn't been able to find one at any normal bookstore. It occurred to me that the Brown University Bookstore would have books in various languages, so I went there. They had a vast assortment of books in French. I'd been wanting to read Proust's "Remembrance of Things Past" anyway, so when I found volume one in French, I bought it.
Also went to Swan Point Cemetery. Found out the dates and places of Aunt Mat and Unk's births and deaths. They were both born in Pennsylvania. Aunt Mat was born in Ringtown August 4, 1864, and named Martha Alvaretta Applegate. Unk was born in Shamokin, August 30, 1861, and named James Buchanan Klase, after the former president. Unk died April 2, 1950, and Aunt Mat August 11, 1953. They'd both been cremated, so there was no gravesite to visit.
Got back early, so I could go to the Post Office. Just one letter. Went to the super market and bought a few groceries.
Roy's bicycle tire went flat, so he borrowed Jay Jay's truck and took his bike to a shop and got the tire fixed.
Tomorrow looks like a go. We dismantled our bikes and put them away. Frank O'Neil, a very nice guy who's interested in buying the Jofian in a couple of years, will be going with us.

Wednesday, November 2, 1994 - New Bedford, MA

Blew like crazy all night and all day. Cold, too, even though the wind's out of the southwest. 40-knot gales on the ocean. Glad we're tied to the dock.
Roy continued working on the boat. Replaced his head. I stayed on the boat all day, bundled up in the warm winter clothes my kids gave me. I had hoped to go the Post Office and the grocery store today, but it's too cold and windy.
Looks as if we won't be able to get out of here tomorrow, either. Wind will still be strong and waves high.

Tuesday, November 1, 1994 - New Bedford, MA

I thought I'd gotten over my defugalties, but at three o'clock in the morning, here they came again. I had planned on going to Providence today, but I called it off. Walked over to the drugstore and made some phone calls. In the afternoon, I felt well enough to go to Dartmouth Mall and see a movie. It was a lot of fun, even though the plot was full of holes. It was a good kids' movie, called "Squanto". It was about a Patuxet brave in the early 1600's.
Roy spent most of the day mounting the anchor winch he bought in California. He mounted it in the stern, so we can use a stern anchor if we need to or winch ourselves off if we go aground. (Who, us? We never go aground!)
The wind finally made it into the inner harbor. It's been blowing like crazy out of the southwest. Tomorrow's supposed to be more of the same, but on Thursday it should shift to the northwest, so maybe we'll have a chance to get out of here.