Did the laundry in the morning, while Roy completed his prepara-
tions for his trip. In the afternoon, we took the bus to Dartmouth Mall and ate lupper at the Country Buffet. We had never been there before, and we were pleasantly surprised. It was almost as good as Stacey's in Norfolk. All kinds of yummy stuff to eat in pleasant surroundings, and only $5.49! We wish we'd discovered that place a long time ago. Anyway, we know where it is now.
Wednesday, August 31, 2011
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
Tuesday, August 30, 1994 - New Bedford & Boston, MA
We couldn't have picked a better day to go to Boston. Clear blue sky, bright sunshine, pleasant temperature. We were very glad we didn't go yesterday.
We made a mad dash for the nine-o'clock bus and got there with minutes to spare. The bus left very punctually, so we were glad we were there.
Got to Boston around 10:30. Made a dry run to the airport, so Roy will know exactly how to get there Thursday morning. The subway station is in the same block as the bus terminal, so that was easy. The Boston subways are color-coded, and there are lots of signs, so we had no problem changing trains. Took the Red Line one stop to the Orange Line, the Orange Line one stop to the Blue Line, and the Blue Line three stops to the airport, where a free shuttle bus transported us to the Continental terminal. The entire trip cost 85 cents each and took about twenty minutes.
When we got back to downtown Boston, we strolled a couple of blocks to the Tea Party Museum. They have a replica of the Beaver, one of the three boats that had tea dumped off it December 16, 1773. A highly enthusiastic young woman gave us a talk about the Tea Party and then led us to the boat, where a young man continued the tale and dumped a box of make-believe tea overboard. Afterwards, we were all allowed to dump a box overboard and then retrieve it. We also walked around on the boat and visited the museum.
We were very hungry when we left there. Walked along the waterfront, enjoying the view of Boston Harbor and looking for a place to eat, but all the waterfront places were too expensive, so we went farther inland. Finally found an all-you-can-eat buffet for $5.99, so we ate there. It wasn't the greatest, but it was fairly good.
Went over to Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market. Watched a juggler for a while and then wandered around. It's sort of like Pier 9 in San Francisco or Harborside in Baltimore: lots of tourists and lots of high-priced little shops. We went into Faneuil Hall and had the good fortune of being treated to a National Park Service Ranger talk. The Ranger and a small group arrived just a couple of minutes after we did. When they left, we joined the group and followed the Ranger to the Paul Revere House, where he gave another talk, and then to the Old North Church, where the two lanterns were hung. This was the end of the Ranger-led tour, so after his talk, Roy and I went inside the church and heard another brief talk.
By then, it was after five and all the historic buildings were closing. We walked back to the Faneuil Hall area and stopped at a McDonald's for a couple of strawberry shakes. Then we zoomed over to the bus terminal and caught the 6:15 back to New Bedford. We decided to stay on the bus all the way to Fairhaven, even though it would be a longer walk to the boat. It was a lovely, balmy evening for a walk, and it's much pleasanter walking in Fairhaven than in New Bedford.
We made a mad dash for the nine-o'clock bus and got there with minutes to spare. The bus left very punctually, so we were glad we were there.
Got to Boston around 10:30. Made a dry run to the airport, so Roy will know exactly how to get there Thursday morning. The subway station is in the same block as the bus terminal, so that was easy. The Boston subways are color-coded, and there are lots of signs, so we had no problem changing trains. Took the Red Line one stop to the Orange Line, the Orange Line one stop to the Blue Line, and the Blue Line three stops to the airport, where a free shuttle bus transported us to the Continental terminal. The entire trip cost 85 cents each and took about twenty minutes.
When we got back to downtown Boston, we strolled a couple of blocks to the Tea Party Museum. They have a replica of the Beaver, one of the three boats that had tea dumped off it December 16, 1773. A highly enthusiastic young woman gave us a talk about the Tea Party and then led us to the boat, where a young man continued the tale and dumped a box of make-believe tea overboard. Afterwards, we were all allowed to dump a box overboard and then retrieve it. We also walked around on the boat and visited the museum.
We were very hungry when we left there. Walked along the waterfront, enjoying the view of Boston Harbor and looking for a place to eat, but all the waterfront places were too expensive, so we went farther inland. Finally found an all-you-can-eat buffet for $5.99, so we ate there. It wasn't the greatest, but it was fairly good.
Went over to Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market. Watched a juggler for a while and then wandered around. It's sort of like Pier 9 in San Francisco or Harborside in Baltimore: lots of tourists and lots of high-priced little shops. We went into Faneuil Hall and had the good fortune of being treated to a National Park Service Ranger talk. The Ranger and a small group arrived just a couple of minutes after we did. When they left, we joined the group and followed the Ranger to the Paul Revere House, where he gave another talk, and then to the Old North Church, where the two lanterns were hung. This was the end of the Ranger-led tour, so after his talk, Roy and I went inside the church and heard another brief talk.
By then, it was after five and all the historic buildings were closing. We walked back to the Faneuil Hall area and stopped at a McDonald's for a couple of strawberry shakes. Then we zoomed over to the bus terminal and caught the 6:15 back to New Bedford. We decided to stay on the bus all the way to Fairhaven, even though it would be a longer walk to the boat. It was a lovely, balmy evening for a walk, and it's much pleasanter walking in Fairhaven than in New Bedford.
Monday, August 29, 2011
Monday, August 29, 1994 - New Bedford, MA
Pouring rain this morning. Luckily, we had postponed our Boston trip until Tuesday, because Roy wanted to finish boxing and shipping his tools that he'll need in California. This would not have been a good day for sightseeing, but it was a great day for indoor activities.
The guy from the generator repair place came by to say that the fuel tank was all rusty and the valves were shellacked, or something like that. He said they could fix it, but it wouldn't be covered by the warranty. Roy gave them the go-ahead.
By the way, Roy found out why the boat crashed into the bridge the other night. The power failed as the bridge was opening, so momentum kept the bridge swinging past its normal position. The bridge is 100 years old. They're planning on building a new one sometime in the near future. The old one is having lots of problems. One time today, it stuck half open and half closed. Angry motorists were beeping their horns, and many turned around and headed for the other bridge. It took about half an hour to get the bridge operational again.
The guy from the generator repair place came by to say that the fuel tank was all rusty and the valves were shellacked, or something like that. He said they could fix it, but it wouldn't be covered by the warranty. Roy gave them the go-ahead.
By the way, Roy found out why the boat crashed into the bridge the other night. The power failed as the bridge was opening, so momentum kept the bridge swinging past its normal position. The bridge is 100 years old. They're planning on building a new one sometime in the near future. The old one is having lots of problems. One time today, it stuck half open and half closed. Angry motorists were beeping their horns, and many turned around and headed for the other bridge. It took about half an hour to get the bridge operational again.
Sunday, August 28, 2011
Sunday, August 28, 1994 - New Bedford, MA
Finally reached Clarence Lovelace on the telephone! And he turned out to be very nice. I had been afraid he'd be an old grump who wouldn't talk to me at all, but he was just as nice as could be. He even remembered me! As soon as I told him my name, he remembered the
little kid who used to stay in the green houses in front of his mother's house. You could have knocked me over with a feather! He said he's a little older than I am, so he must have been a teenager when I was a little kid, but I don't remember him at all.
He told me the houses were torn down, because they were beyond repair. A lot of the wood had rotted. The lumber that was salvageable was purchased by a young couple, who used it to build a house near the airport. It's good to know that part of Aunty Margarethe's houses have been recycled. The garage wasn't torn down but was moved to the old Prentice place and is still there! If Roy and I had walked a little farther down the driveway, we'd have seen it, but I was afraid of the "No Trespassing" signs. Mr. Lovelace said it was hard to see from the road, because it's covered with vines and bushes.
When Mrs. Elphinstone bought the property, she let her son Clarence and his family move into the old Prentice place. She also gave them the furniture from Aunty Margarethe's houses, and it's still there.
They found several brand new canoes in the barn. They were still in their original packing crates. Clarence's brother took them to his place in Essex, Connecticut.
I asked if they had found any personal papers or photographs, but they hadn't. However, they found a packet of twenty or more old dollar bills--the extra large ones that were in circulation a century ago. Clarence was on his way to Philadelphia, so he wrote down the serial numbers of the bills so he could check with a numismatist as to their value. He advised his mother to put the bills in her savings deposit box. Unfortunately, she misunderstood him and simply exchanged the bills for current dollar bills at face value. The numismatist said they were worth $50 each!
Mr. Lovelace even invited me to his house. The next time we're in Nantucket, we'll accept. It will be a thrill to see the old furniture that I remember so well and the garage where I used to play.
I feel a lot better after talking with him.
little kid who used to stay in the green houses in front of his mother's house. You could have knocked me over with a feather! He said he's a little older than I am, so he must have been a teenager when I was a little kid, but I don't remember him at all.
He told me the houses were torn down, because they were beyond repair. A lot of the wood had rotted. The lumber that was salvageable was purchased by a young couple, who used it to build a house near the airport. It's good to know that part of Aunty Margarethe's houses have been recycled. The garage wasn't torn down but was moved to the old Prentice place and is still there! If Roy and I had walked a little farther down the driveway, we'd have seen it, but I was afraid of the "No Trespassing" signs. Mr. Lovelace said it was hard to see from the road, because it's covered with vines and bushes.
When Mrs. Elphinstone bought the property, she let her son Clarence and his family move into the old Prentice place. She also gave them the furniture from Aunty Margarethe's houses, and it's still there.
They found several brand new canoes in the barn. They were still in their original packing crates. Clarence's brother took them to his place in Essex, Connecticut.
I asked if they had found any personal papers or photographs, but they hadn't. However, they found a packet of twenty or more old dollar bills--the extra large ones that were in circulation a century ago. Clarence was on his way to Philadelphia, so he wrote down the serial numbers of the bills so he could check with a numismatist as to their value. He advised his mother to put the bills in her savings deposit box. Unfortunately, she misunderstood him and simply exchanged the bills for current dollar bills at face value. The numismatist said they were worth $50 each!
Mr. Lovelace even invited me to his house. The next time we're in Nantucket, we'll accept. It will be a thrill to see the old furniture that I remember so well and the garage where I used to play.
I feel a lot better after talking with him.
Saturday, August 27, 2011
Saturday, August 27, 1994 - New Bedford, MA
Roy went over to the generator place to check on the generator. They're waiting for word from the factory, but haven't heard from them yet.
I spent a couple of hours organizing the medical bills for my broken arm and making out the claim form for Kaiser. Then I tried to stuff everything into the little return envelope they had sent me. It was a struggle, but I finally got it all in. Took it over to the New Bedford Post Office. Got there at ten past twelve. The Post Office closed at twelve. Figures. But at least they had a scale in the lobby, so I was able to weigh the envelope. I had guesstimated three ounces, and that's exactly what it weighed, so I put three stamps on it and drop it down the slot. That's done for now. In a few weeks, I'll receive another form letter from Kaiser telling me to send them this, that, and the other. Perhaps in a hundred years my heirs will receive a check.
Went to the bus station and picked up a schedule to Boston. We're going to go there Monday or Tuesday to figure out the best way to get to the airport from the bus terminal. I think the subway goes there, but we want to be sure, so Roy won't have to waste time Thursday morning. While we're in Boston, we'll also do some sightseeing.
I spent a couple of hours organizing the medical bills for my broken arm and making out the claim form for Kaiser. Then I tried to stuff everything into the little return envelope they had sent me. It was a struggle, but I finally got it all in. Took it over to the New Bedford Post Office. Got there at ten past twelve. The Post Office closed at twelve. Figures. But at least they had a scale in the lobby, so I was able to weigh the envelope. I had guesstimated three ounces, and that's exactly what it weighed, so I put three stamps on it and drop it down the slot. That's done for now. In a few weeks, I'll receive another form letter from Kaiser telling me to send them this, that, and the other. Perhaps in a hundred years my heirs will receive a check.
Went to the bus station and picked up a schedule to Boston. We're going to go there Monday or Tuesday to figure out the best way to get to the airport from the bus terminal. I think the subway goes there, but we want to be sure, so Roy won't have to waste time Thursday morning. While we're in Boston, we'll also do some sightseeing.
Friday, August 26, 2011
Friday, August 26, 1994 - New Bedford, MA
Much lazier day today. The only exercise I got was to trundle the blue cart to Shaw's, fill it with groceries, and pull it back to the boat. While I was doing that, Roy changed the oil in the engine.
Later, Roy went for a bike ride. I reconciled my bank statements and found the bank had cheated itself out of sixty cents. I also went through the various medical bills and tried to make sense of them.
My computer seems to have repaired itself. A couple of weeks ago, it was having intermittent read problems with the hard drive, and I thought I'd have to take it to Radio Shack for adjustment, but now it's working perfectly, I'm happy to report.
I had intended to mail out the log before we left Fairhaven a month ago but didn't have time. Now it's so close to Roy's departure for California that I figure I might as well wrap it up then and send it all at the same time.
Later, Roy went for a bike ride. I reconciled my bank statements and found the bank had cheated itself out of sixty cents. I also went through the various medical bills and tried to make sense of them.
My computer seems to have repaired itself. A couple of weeks ago, it was having intermittent read problems with the hard drive, and I thought I'd have to take it to Radio Shack for adjustment, but now it's working perfectly, I'm happy to report.
I had intended to mail out the log before we left Fairhaven a month ago but didn't have time. Now it's so close to Roy's departure for California that I figure I might as well wrap it up then and send it all at the same time.
Thursday, August 25, 2011
Thursday, August 25, 1994 - New Bedford, MA
Busy day. Right after breakfast, Roy took the generator back to the place where he bought it. That thing has never worked right. They should give him a new one, but they'll probably just patch it up again and say it's repaired, and we'll go on having the same problems.
I put my bike together, pumped up the tires, and rode to the post office. Hooray, my mail was there! Then I went to the grocery store for chicken, and stopped at a drugstore to leave my film for developing. When I got back to the boat, I spent a couple of hours going through the two-month accumulation of mail. Radio Shack still hasn't got my account straightened out. They sent me a copy of what was supposed to be the unpaid amount, but it was the wrong amount and had been credited back in March. I phoned them at their 800 number, but of course the person I needed to talk with was on vacation. Gave the info to another person, who said if I didn't hear from Ms Couch by September 1st to call back. This thing has been dragging on for months. I'd like to get it out of my hair.
Roy secured the boat and put on the sail covers. Then he treated me to a delicious buffet lunch at the Chinese restaurant.
After lunch, I went back to the post office to mail a letter and to a bank with an ATM. The ATM was being serviced, so I had to hang around ten or fifteen minutes before it was available.
When I got back to the boat, I bagged up a ton of dirty clothes and hauled them to the laundromat in the blue wagon. By the time I got back from the laundry, it was seven o'clock. Kathy had written that Linda wanted me to phone her, so I did. Was happy to hear she has a good new job. This one's full-time, with benefits. She'll have a paid vacation for the first time in seven years. The company will even reimburse her for college tuition. She'll be working as an administrative assistant, with good opportunity to advance.
While I was talking with Linda, a big fishing boat crashed into the bridge. Roy said it made a terrific crash, and the whole bridge shook. There didn't seem to be much damage, however. The boat continued on its way, and the bridge closed okay.
I put my bike together, pumped up the tires, and rode to the post office. Hooray, my mail was there! Then I went to the grocery store for chicken, and stopped at a drugstore to leave my film for developing. When I got back to the boat, I spent a couple of hours going through the two-month accumulation of mail. Radio Shack still hasn't got my account straightened out. They sent me a copy of what was supposed to be the unpaid amount, but it was the wrong amount and had been credited back in March. I phoned them at their 800 number, but of course the person I needed to talk with was on vacation. Gave the info to another person, who said if I didn't hear from Ms Couch by September 1st to call back. This thing has been dragging on for months. I'd like to get it out of my hair.
Roy secured the boat and put on the sail covers. Then he treated me to a delicious buffet lunch at the Chinese restaurant.
After lunch, I went back to the post office to mail a letter and to a bank with an ATM. The ATM was being serviced, so I had to hang around ten or fifteen minutes before it was available.
When I got back to the boat, I bagged up a ton of dirty clothes and hauled them to the laundromat in the blue wagon. By the time I got back from the laundry, it was seven o'clock. Kathy had written that Linda wanted me to phone her, so I did. Was happy to hear she has a good new job. This one's full-time, with benefits. She'll have a paid vacation for the first time in seven years. The company will even reimburse her for college tuition. She'll be working as an administrative assistant, with good opportunity to advance.
While I was talking with Linda, a big fishing boat crashed into the bridge. Roy said it made a terrific crash, and the whole bridge shook. There didn't seem to be much damage, however. The boat continued on its way, and the bridge closed okay.
Wednesday, August 24, 2011
Wednesday, August 24, 1994 - New Bedford, MA
Another clear, sunny, beautiful day, but with no wind. We cast off at eight o'clock and motorsailed leisurely across Cape Cod Bay. The canal was very easy to go through and surprisingly attractive. The banks had green grass, trees, bicycle paths, and a few nice homes.
As soon as we emerged in Buzzards Bay, we were back in August. We hadn't realized what a temperature barrier Cape Cod is. North of the Cape, the weather was very cool, almost cold. South of the Cape, it's hot.
The light breeze had shifted to the southwest, so we had to motor. It was four o'clock by the time we were in sight of the hurricane barrier at New Bedford. The Fairhaven Bridge only opens at quarter past the hour in the afternoon. We couldn't possibly make the 4:15 opening, so I called the bridge and requested the 5:15 opening. Since we had quite a bit of time to kill, Roy turned off the engine, raised the headsail, and just sort of drifted around. I made several attempts to contact the marina, but there was no response. Got the fenders and lines ready.
When it got to be 4:30, I began worrying that we wouldn't make the bridge in time. At 4:40, I said, "Don't wait too long." Roy said, "I won't. Just a few more minutes." He didn't realize how far we were from the gate. At 4:45, he finally started the engine and began motoring towards the gate. Then the awful truth dawned on him. We were still nearly three miles from the hurricane barrier. It would take us the better part of half an hour just to reach the gate, and the bridge was another ten minutes from there. I radioed the bridge to let them know we wouldn't make the 5:15. Roy had the engine cranked way up, so we were making more than seven knots. Fortunately, there was no wind or current against us. Even so, it was 5:10 by the time we got through the gate. By dumb luck, a tugboat was waiting to come out, so the bridge had to open anyway. The bridge tender must have seen us coming, because he delayed the opening a minute or two. By the time the tug got through, we were in position to go through. Whew! That was a race, but we made it. Saw an empty slip at the marina and went into it. How nice to be tied to a dock again and to have free electricity and free showers! We both took showers before supper.
As soon as we emerged in Buzzards Bay, we were back in August. We hadn't realized what a temperature barrier Cape Cod is. North of the Cape, the weather was very cool, almost cold. South of the Cape, it's hot.
The light breeze had shifted to the southwest, so we had to motor. It was four o'clock by the time we were in sight of the hurricane barrier at New Bedford. The Fairhaven Bridge only opens at quarter past the hour in the afternoon. We couldn't possibly make the 4:15 opening, so I called the bridge and requested the 5:15 opening. Since we had quite a bit of time to kill, Roy turned off the engine, raised the headsail, and just sort of drifted around. I made several attempts to contact the marina, but there was no response. Got the fenders and lines ready.
When it got to be 4:30, I began worrying that we wouldn't make the bridge in time. At 4:40, I said, "Don't wait too long." Roy said, "I won't. Just a few more minutes." He didn't realize how far we were from the gate. At 4:45, he finally started the engine and began motoring towards the gate. Then the awful truth dawned on him. We were still nearly three miles from the hurricane barrier. It would take us the better part of half an hour just to reach the gate, and the bridge was another ten minutes from there. I radioed the bridge to let them know we wouldn't make the 5:15. Roy had the engine cranked way up, so we were making more than seven knots. Fortunately, there was no wind or current against us. Even so, it was 5:10 by the time we got through the gate. By dumb luck, a tugboat was waiting to come out, so the bridge had to open anyway. The bridge tender must have seen us coming, because he delayed the opening a minute or two. By the time the tug got through, we were in position to go through. Whew! That was a race, but we made it. Saw an empty slip at the marina and went into it. How nice to be tied to a dock again and to have free electricity and free showers! We both took showers before supper.
Tuesday, August 23, 2011
Tuesday, August 23, 1994 - Provincetown, MA
The wind howled all night and blew away the rain clouds. We awoke to blue sky and bright sun, but the wind was still blowing strong. The place looked a lot better today.
After breakfast, we went ashore in the launch and walked back to the tower. There was excellent visibility today, so it was worthwhile going up. Yesterday it would have been a waste. The tower was surprisingly easy to climb. We had expected hundreds of steps, but there were very few steps. Instead, there were gradually sloping ramps, so we went up almost effortlessly. The tower was built in the early 1900's, and is the tallest all-granite structure in the United States. It's really an architectural marvel.
The view from the top was spectacular. We could see for miles in every direction. To the west, we could see the mainland, in the Boston area, and farther south, the entrance to the Cape Cod Canal, where we're going tomorrow. Looking south, we could see the entire inner coast of Cape Cod. We couldn't see Gloucester to the north, but we could see way out over the ocean. The wind was still blowing like crazy, and there were lots of whitecaps.
Back on the ground, we visited the adjoining museum, which was small but had many interesting exhibits, especially the one on the pirate ship Whydah, which had sunk in 1717 and just been salvaged in the past few years. Technicians are still working to retrieve artifacts. In fact, they're working right there in the museum, so we could watch them. The museum also has tanks of electrolytic fluid, where artifacts are soaking to loosen the deposits of centuries.
It was noon when we left the museum, so we walked over to the A & P to buy lunch at their salad bar. Not only was it less expensive than the ripoff restaurants, it was also more nutritious. We carried our salads to the beach and enjoyed the view while we ate. Then we walked across a mile-long breakwater that had remarkably smooth, level stones. We wanted to explore the old Civil War forts on Long Point. At the time they were built, the locals dubbed them "Fort Useless" and "Fort Ridiculous". They were abandoned after the war and soon covered with sand and wild grass and bushes. Now they're nothing but big lumps. Ridiculous and useless. Roy wisely lay down on the sand to take a nap, but I walked the mile or two to the point to see them. Anyway, I saw the old lighthouse.
When I got back, Roy was nowhere to be seen. It turned out a bunch of voracious flies had driven him away, but I didn't find that out until I caught up with him. I thought surely he'd be waiting for me at the breakwater, but he wasn't, so I walked back across the breakwater with a talkative woman from Connecticut who happened to come along just then. As I approached the other end of the breakwater, I saw Roy standing by the fence. We strolled back to town past many lovely homes. When we got to the "downtown" area, we saw a rather weird store that had an agglomeration of junk, everything from old-time diving suits to used blankets. We spent some time wandering around in there, but didn't buy anything.
By the time we got back to the boat, the wind had died completely. The water was perfectly flat. Hard to believe it was the same place. We'd already paid for tonight, and it was too late to go anywhere anyway, so we ate supper and plotted our course for tomorrow.
After breakfast, we went ashore in the launch and walked back to the tower. There was excellent visibility today, so it was worthwhile going up. Yesterday it would have been a waste. The tower was surprisingly easy to climb. We had expected hundreds of steps, but there were very few steps. Instead, there were gradually sloping ramps, so we went up almost effortlessly. The tower was built in the early 1900's, and is the tallest all-granite structure in the United States. It's really an architectural marvel.
The view from the top was spectacular. We could see for miles in every direction. To the west, we could see the mainland, in the Boston area, and farther south, the entrance to the Cape Cod Canal, where we're going tomorrow. Looking south, we could see the entire inner coast of Cape Cod. We couldn't see Gloucester to the north, but we could see way out over the ocean. The wind was still blowing like crazy, and there were lots of whitecaps.
Back on the ground, we visited the adjoining museum, which was small but had many interesting exhibits, especially the one on the pirate ship Whydah, which had sunk in 1717 and just been salvaged in the past few years. Technicians are still working to retrieve artifacts. In fact, they're working right there in the museum, so we could watch them. The museum also has tanks of electrolytic fluid, where artifacts are soaking to loosen the deposits of centuries.
It was noon when we left the museum, so we walked over to the A & P to buy lunch at their salad bar. Not only was it less expensive than the ripoff restaurants, it was also more nutritious. We carried our salads to the beach and enjoyed the view while we ate. Then we walked across a mile-long breakwater that had remarkably smooth, level stones. We wanted to explore the old Civil War forts on Long Point. At the time they were built, the locals dubbed them "Fort Useless" and "Fort Ridiculous". They were abandoned after the war and soon covered with sand and wild grass and bushes. Now they're nothing but big lumps. Ridiculous and useless. Roy wisely lay down on the sand to take a nap, but I walked the mile or two to the point to see them. Anyway, I saw the old lighthouse.
When I got back, Roy was nowhere to be seen. It turned out a bunch of voracious flies had driven him away, but I didn't find that out until I caught up with him. I thought surely he'd be waiting for me at the breakwater, but he wasn't, so I walked back across the breakwater with a talkative woman from Connecticut who happened to come along just then. As I approached the other end of the breakwater, I saw Roy standing by the fence. We strolled back to town past many lovely homes. When we got to the "downtown" area, we saw a rather weird store that had an agglomeration of junk, everything from old-time diving suits to used blankets. We spent some time wandering around in there, but didn't buy anything.
By the time we got back to the boat, the wind had died completely. The water was perfectly flat. Hard to believe it was the same place. We'd already paid for tonight, and it was too late to go anywhere anyway, so we ate supper and plotted our course for tomorrow.
Monday, August 22, 2011
Monday, August 22, 1994 - Provincetown, MA
Left Gloucester at seven a.m. It was calm and clear in the harbor, but as soon as we got outside, we found ourselves in dense fog. We were sure glad we had the radar. Saw a couple of small whales and several fishing boats.
After a couple of hours, the fog lifted, but the sky was overcast and a light rain was falling, so we didn't have a great deal of visibility. We motorsailed all morning. By noon, the wind picked up, and we were able to turn off the engine. The wind kept getting stronger and stronger and the sea rougher and rougher. There were lots of whitecaps. Roy had to take in the staysail and reef the headsail. Even so, we were scooting along at seven knots or better. We reached the lee of Cape Cod around three o'clock, so the waves calmed down a bit, but the wind kept blowing stronger and stronger.
When we rounded the point to approach Provincetown, we were going directly into the wind, so we had to start the engine and take in the sails. The ferry to Boston was going out just as we were going in. It had the wind in back of it, so it was really moving, but when it got out into the bay, the waves were too much for it and it had to turn back.
The wind was gusting thirty or thirty-five knots when I crawled out on the bow in my foulies to get the anchor ready. The rain was pelting my face so hard, it felt like sand.
There wasn't much protection in Provincetown Harbor. The land is flat and narrow, so the wind blows right over it. The breakwater protects from sou'wes'ers, but doesn't do anything against nor'easters. We entered the harbor at the western end of the breakwater, went past a lot of moored boats and out the eastern end of the breakwater. There weren't any other boats out there, so Roy gave the order to drop anchor. The anchor works perfectly 99% of the time, but when there's an emergency, it always seems to hang up for some reason. I couldn't get it to go down, so Roy had me take the wheel and he wrestled the anchor and finally got it down, but it didn't take hold. We were dragging towards the breakwater. Roy tried to raise the anchor so we could move to another location, but he couldn't get it up. It seemed to be caught on something. He came back to the cockpit, revved up the engine, told me to head into the wind, and he went back out to struggle with the anchor again. He struggled with all his strength but couldn't get the anchor up, and the boat kept sliding towards the breakwater. I was puzzled, because the engine was revved up higher than usual yet we didn't seem to have any propulsion. In fact, I didn't even have steerage. Something was obviously wrong. It suddenly occurred to me that maybe the transmission wasn't engaged. I checked, and it wasn't! So I'm not the only one who goofs. Quickly, I shifted into neutral, engaged the transmission, and revved it up again. Immediately, the boat started moving away from the breakwater. Roy looked back with an expression of immense relief. In a few minutes, he had the anchor on deck and the boat was back under control.
Under the circumstances, we both agreed the smart thing to do was to rent a mooring. I radioed the Harbor Master, and he told me to contact either Provincetown Moorings or Flyer Moorings on Channel 9. I called Provincetown Moorings. They had a mooring available close to the dock, so we went over there. Roy steered, and I went out on the bow with the boat hook. For a minute or two, I was afraid the hook wouldn't reach the mooring line, but all of a sudden the line was on the hook and I was pulling it up. Roy came out to secure the line to a cleat but didn't get it the way he wanted it the first time. In fact, it took three tries, but finally we were safely secured to the mooring, while the wind continued to rage and howl. What a relief!, Kai,www, J, B
The mooring cost $35 a night. Usually, we would scream bloody murder at the mere thought of paying $35 for a mooring, but this time we would have paid almost any amount. It was certainly cheaper than having the boat smashed on the rocks. The price included unlimited launch service, so it wasn't too bad.
We went ashore in the launch and walked around. There really isn't much here, which is disappointing. It's another tourist-trap place. Lots of little shops, full of expensive junk. Crowds of tourists wandering around. The main feature of the town is a 257-foot tower honoring the Pilgrims. The Pilgrims landed here first and signed the Mayflower Compact here, before they went to Plymouth. After seeing the place, we can understand why they left.
We walked up to the tower, but the admission was $5 and no senior discount, so we didn't go in. It was nearly six o'clock by then anyway, so we went to the A & P, bought chicken and potatoes, and returned to the boat.
Found out the showers cost $1 for three-and-a-half minutes. After paying $35 for a mooring, we felt that was outrageous, so we decided to stay dirty.
After a couple of hours, the fog lifted, but the sky was overcast and a light rain was falling, so we didn't have a great deal of visibility. We motorsailed all morning. By noon, the wind picked up, and we were able to turn off the engine. The wind kept getting stronger and stronger and the sea rougher and rougher. There were lots of whitecaps. Roy had to take in the staysail and reef the headsail. Even so, we were scooting along at seven knots or better. We reached the lee of Cape Cod around three o'clock, so the waves calmed down a bit, but the wind kept blowing stronger and stronger.
When we rounded the point to approach Provincetown, we were going directly into the wind, so we had to start the engine and take in the sails. The ferry to Boston was going out just as we were going in. It had the wind in back of it, so it was really moving, but when it got out into the bay, the waves were too much for it and it had to turn back.
The wind was gusting thirty or thirty-five knots when I crawled out on the bow in my foulies to get the anchor ready. The rain was pelting my face so hard, it felt like sand.
There wasn't much protection in Provincetown Harbor. The land is flat and narrow, so the wind blows right over it. The breakwater protects from sou'wes'ers, but doesn't do anything against nor'easters. We entered the harbor at the western end of the breakwater, went past a lot of moored boats and out the eastern end of the breakwater. There weren't any other boats out there, so Roy gave the order to drop anchor. The anchor works perfectly 99% of the time, but when there's an emergency, it always seems to hang up for some reason. I couldn't get it to go down, so Roy had me take the wheel and he wrestled the anchor and finally got it down, but it didn't take hold. We were dragging towards the breakwater. Roy tried to raise the anchor so we could move to another location, but he couldn't get it up. It seemed to be caught on something. He came back to the cockpit, revved up the engine, told me to head into the wind, and he went back out to struggle with the anchor again. He struggled with all his strength but couldn't get the anchor up, and the boat kept sliding towards the breakwater. I was puzzled, because the engine was revved up higher than usual yet we didn't seem to have any propulsion. In fact, I didn't even have steerage. Something was obviously wrong. It suddenly occurred to me that maybe the transmission wasn't engaged. I checked, and it wasn't! So I'm not the only one who goofs. Quickly, I shifted into neutral, engaged the transmission, and revved it up again. Immediately, the boat started moving away from the breakwater. Roy looked back with an expression of immense relief. In a few minutes, he had the anchor on deck and the boat was back under control.
Under the circumstances, we both agreed the smart thing to do was to rent a mooring. I radioed the Harbor Master, and he told me to contact either Provincetown Moorings or Flyer Moorings on Channel 9. I called Provincetown Moorings. They had a mooring available close to the dock, so we went over there. Roy steered, and I went out on the bow with the boat hook. For a minute or two, I was afraid the hook wouldn't reach the mooring line, but all of a sudden the line was on the hook and I was pulling it up. Roy came out to secure the line to a cleat but didn't get it the way he wanted it the first time. In fact, it took three tries, but finally we were safely secured to the mooring, while the wind continued to rage and howl. What a relief!, Kai,www, J, B
The mooring cost $35 a night. Usually, we would scream bloody murder at the mere thought of paying $35 for a mooring, but this time we would have paid almost any amount. It was certainly cheaper than having the boat smashed on the rocks. The price included unlimited launch service, so it wasn't too bad.
We went ashore in the launch and walked around. There really isn't much here, which is disappointing. It's another tourist-trap place. Lots of little shops, full of expensive junk. Crowds of tourists wandering around. The main feature of the town is a 257-foot tower honoring the Pilgrims. The Pilgrims landed here first and signed the Mayflower Compact here, before they went to Plymouth. After seeing the place, we can understand why they left.
We walked up to the tower, but the admission was $5 and no senior discount, so we didn't go in. It was nearly six o'clock by then anyway, so we went to the A & P, bought chicken and potatoes, and returned to the boat.
Found out the showers cost $1 for three-and-a-half minutes. After paying $35 for a mooring, we felt that was outrageous, so we decided to stay dirty.
Sunday, August 21, 2011
Sunday, August 21, 1994 - Goucester, MA
Paddled to a better part of the beach. Caught the 11:30 trolley bus to Rockport. We had to wait half an hour for the trolley that would take us to the quarry, so we wandered around. We were amazed by the number of people. Rockport is an artists' colony and popular tourist attraction. There are lots of galleries and small shops.
We enjoyed the narrated ride to Halibut State Park, where the quarry is. There was no admission charge. We took the self-guided tour around the quarry and watched the videos at the park headquarters. Saw a lot of old tools and learned a lot, but not enough to satisfy Roy, so we bought a book on quarrying.
After the tour, we walked down the hill to Folly Cove and ate lunch at a little restaurant that looked a lot like the one we ate in yesterday but had better food and lower prices. Enjoyed sandwiches and ice cream.
When the trolley bus arrived, we stayed on it for the other half of the tour, out to Loblolly Cove. Very pretty scenery and lovely homes. Got back to Gloucester around 5:30. Severe thunderstorms were predicted, but the sky didn't look threatening, so we walked to the supermarket and bought chicken and potatoes. By the time we got back to our Royaks, the wind was blowing pretty strong, the sky was black, and white caps were starting to form in the harbor. Several people stopped to watch us getting ready and to warn us it was rough out there, but of course we had to get back to the Jofian anyhow. The wind was in our favor, so it really wasn't at all difficult paddling back.
The sailboat that had dragged into us a couple of days ago did it again. The guy wasn't on it, so we pulled up our anchor and moved. This is about the fifth time we've anchored in this one harbor.
The rain soon started pouring down, and we were glad to be back on the boat. Filled the water tank again.
There are a lot of other things we'd like to see and do while we're in Gloucester, but time is running out, so we decided to leave tomorrow for Provincetown. A twenty-knot northeast wind is predicted.
We enjoyed the narrated ride to Halibut State Park, where the quarry is. There was no admission charge. We took the self-guided tour around the quarry and watched the videos at the park headquarters. Saw a lot of old tools and learned a lot, but not enough to satisfy Roy, so we bought a book on quarrying.
After the tour, we walked down the hill to Folly Cove and ate lunch at a little restaurant that looked a lot like the one we ate in yesterday but had better food and lower prices. Enjoyed sandwiches and ice cream.
When the trolley bus arrived, we stayed on it for the other half of the tour, out to Loblolly Cove. Very pretty scenery and lovely homes. Got back to Gloucester around 5:30. Severe thunderstorms were predicted, but the sky didn't look threatening, so we walked to the supermarket and bought chicken and potatoes. By the time we got back to our Royaks, the wind was blowing pretty strong, the sky was black, and white caps were starting to form in the harbor. Several people stopped to watch us getting ready and to warn us it was rough out there, but of course we had to get back to the Jofian anyhow. The wind was in our favor, so it really wasn't at all difficult paddling back.
The sailboat that had dragged into us a couple of days ago did it again. The guy wasn't on it, so we pulled up our anchor and moved. This is about the fifth time we've anchored in this one harbor.
The rain soon started pouring down, and we were glad to be back on the boat. Filled the water tank again.
There are a lot of other things we'd like to see and do while we're in Gloucester, but time is running out, so we decided to leave tomorrow for Provincetown. A twenty-knot northeast wind is predicted.
Saturday, August 20, 2011
Saturday, August 20, 1994 - Gloucester, MA
On weekends, they run trolley buses that take you all over Cape Ann. Senior fare is only $2 all day, and you can get off and on as often as you like. We wanted to ride the trolley out to Essex, so we could visit the Shipbuilding Museum. Paddled in to the beach and tied up our Royaks. We thought we had missed the 11:30 trolley and would have to take the 12:30, so we walked down to the schooner "Adventure" and looked her over. Had a hard time finding a trolley stop, but eventually one came along and we flagged it down.
By the time we got to Essex, we were plenty hungry, so we went to a little seafood restaurant before going into the museum. Most of the prices were considerably more than we wanted to pay. Roy ate a fish sandwich and four clamcakes. I ate four clamcakes and drank a glass of pink lemonade. The clamcakes were very disappointing. The ones I ate when I was a kid were loaded with clams, but these were mostly batter with just a few tiny pieces of clam.
After lunch, we strolled over to the Evalina Goulart, an old fishing schooner that nearly sank in Fairhaven Harbor, but was rescued and towed to Essex, where she had been built. She's now sitting on stands and slowly being rebuilt.
The museum was small but had some interesting exhibits and a video on rescuing the Goulart.
When we left the museum, we had some ice cream and waited for the return trolley. We rode it all the way to the opposite end of the island, at Rockport. Returned to Gloucester and paddled back to the boat.
When I read some of the brochures I'd picked up at the Chamber of Commerce, I learned there's an old granite quarry near Rockport that's open to the public. Roy's been itching to visit a quarry and find out how they worked the stone and moved it, so we decided to go there tomorrow.
By the time we got to Essex, we were plenty hungry, so we went to a little seafood restaurant before going into the museum. Most of the prices were considerably more than we wanted to pay. Roy ate a fish sandwich and four clamcakes. I ate four clamcakes and drank a glass of pink lemonade. The clamcakes were very disappointing. The ones I ate when I was a kid were loaded with clams, but these were mostly batter with just a few tiny pieces of clam.
After lunch, we strolled over to the Evalina Goulart, an old fishing schooner that nearly sank in Fairhaven Harbor, but was rescued and towed to Essex, where she had been built. She's now sitting on stands and slowly being rebuilt.
The museum was small but had some interesting exhibits and a video on rescuing the Goulart.
When we left the museum, we had some ice cream and waited for the return trolley. We rode it all the way to the opposite end of the island, at Rockport. Returned to Gloucester and paddled back to the boat.
When I read some of the brochures I'd picked up at the Chamber of Commerce, I learned there's an old granite quarry near Rockport that's open to the public. Roy's been itching to visit a quarry and find out how they worked the stone and moved it, so we decided to go there tomorrow.
Friday, August 19, 2011
Friday, August 19, 1994 - Gloucester, MA
Gloucester Harbor is very well protected, but it's also very dirty. The water is full of diesel, dead fish, flotsam, and glop. It's intended for commercial fishing boats, not recreational boats. There are no facilities at all for recreational boats, although there are a dozen or so anchored or moored in the center of the harbor.
We paddled in to the town dock, which is located in the filthiest corner of the harbor. When we went in, it was high tide, so it wasn't too bad, but when we returned at low tide, yuk!
We strolled around town. Found a tourist information center where we were able to get some maps and other info. Found out there's a trolley-bus that runs on weekends and will take us all over the area for $2, so we'll ride that tomorrow. There are regular buses, too, that only cost 35 cents, but we didn't succeed in catching one.
The streets in this town twist and ramble all over the place. None of them runs straight, so the blocks aren't square or rectangular; they're all sorts of oddball shapes.
Like most New England towns, Gloucester is very old. Many of the houses were built in the 1700's. Also like many New England towns, it is poor, dingy, and dying.
We wandered around a while and then ate lunch in a little cafe. Then we wandered some more. Went to the City Hall, because we had read that visitors could go up to the third floor and get a great view. Guess what--on Fridays the City Hall closes at noon. Crossed the street to the library to get a bus schedule. On Fridays, the library closes at one o'clock. We got there at one-fifty. Yup.
Some more wandering, and we found the train station, a bus stop, a super market, and a McDonald's. Roy wanted to take a ride on the train, but I didn't like the idea of paying a surcharge for not having tickets in advance. We waved down a bus, but it was just going around the downtown area, so we didn't get on. The driver gave me a schedule. They have buses going all over the place. We waited a while for one, but it was after three by then, so we decided to buy our groceries, take them back to the boat, and paddle around the harbor. We spent several hours paddling around, and Roy stopped to talk with a number of fishermen. Some were unloading big barrels of eels. We also watched a barge being loaded with rocks. Found a beach we can land on if we don't want to go back to the town dock. Saw a sign that said "TOONA BATE". Oh well, if you know how to fish, I guess you don't need to know how to spell.
When we were back on the boat, we noticed another sailboat very close to us. We don't know if it was dragging its anchor or if we were dragging our anchor, but we would have collided if Roy hadn't pushed the other boat away, so we raised the anchor again and moved to a better location.
We paddled in to the town dock, which is located in the filthiest corner of the harbor. When we went in, it was high tide, so it wasn't too bad, but when we returned at low tide, yuk!
We strolled around town. Found a tourist information center where we were able to get some maps and other info. Found out there's a trolley-bus that runs on weekends and will take us all over the area for $2, so we'll ride that tomorrow. There are regular buses, too, that only cost 35 cents, but we didn't succeed in catching one.
The streets in this town twist and ramble all over the place. None of them runs straight, so the blocks aren't square or rectangular; they're all sorts of oddball shapes.
Like most New England towns, Gloucester is very old. Many of the houses were built in the 1700's. Also like many New England towns, it is poor, dingy, and dying.
We wandered around a while and then ate lunch in a little cafe. Then we wandered some more. Went to the City Hall, because we had read that visitors could go up to the third floor and get a great view. Guess what--on Fridays the City Hall closes at noon. Crossed the street to the library to get a bus schedule. On Fridays, the library closes at one o'clock. We got there at one-fifty. Yup.
Some more wandering, and we found the train station, a bus stop, a super market, and a McDonald's. Roy wanted to take a ride on the train, but I didn't like the idea of paying a surcharge for not having tickets in advance. We waved down a bus, but it was just going around the downtown area, so we didn't get on. The driver gave me a schedule. They have buses going all over the place. We waited a while for one, but it was after three by then, so we decided to buy our groceries, take them back to the boat, and paddle around the harbor. We spent several hours paddling around, and Roy stopped to talk with a number of fishermen. Some were unloading big barrels of eels. We also watched a barge being loaded with rocks. Found a beach we can land on if we don't want to go back to the town dock. Saw a sign that said "TOONA BATE". Oh well, if you know how to fish, I guess you don't need to know how to spell.
When we were back on the boat, we noticed another sailboat very close to us. We don't know if it was dragging its anchor or if we were dragging our anchor, but we would have collided if Roy hadn't pushed the other boat away, so we raised the anchor again and moved to a better location.
Thursday, August 18, 2011
Thursday, August 18, 1994 - Gloucester, MA
Wind and rain this morning, the tail end of tropical storm Beryl. The wind has lost most of its power, but the rain is still fairly heavy. We filled our water tank and had plenty of rain left over.
Weighed anchor for Gloucester about ten o'clock. We were able to motorsail most of the way, but then the wind changed and we had to motor.
Going by the Dry Salvages, we saw a fishing boat high and dry on the rocks. Apparently, the crew had already been taken off; we didn't see anyone waving for help, so we continued on.
Gloucester has a very well protected harbor. We arrived about six o'clock. Dropped anchor twice. The first time, we were in a channel, so we had to pull up the anchor and move a few hundred yards.
Weighed anchor for Gloucester about ten o'clock. We were able to motorsail most of the way, but then the wind changed and we had to motor.
Going by the Dry Salvages, we saw a fishing boat high and dry on the rocks. Apparently, the crew had already been taken off; we didn't see anyone waving for help, so we continued on.
Gloucester has a very well protected harbor. We arrived about six o'clock. Dropped anchor twice. The first time, we were in a channel, so we had to pull up the anchor and move a few hundred yards.
Wednesday, August 17, 2011
Wednesday, August 17, 1994 - Portsmouth, Maine
Remarkably calm this morning. First day since we've been here that it didn't blow like crazy.
Paddled to the village dock. Roy went to the phone and called the guy at the electronics place. The Sumlog part had arrived, and he expected the switch cover around noon, so he asked Roy to call him back at 12:30.
Roy and I paddled around the nearby coves, enjoying the scenery. At noon, Roy returned to the dock to phone the electronics guy. I paddled a little more and then went in, too. The switch cover had arrived, and the man drove over with the parts. Roy was very pleased. At long last, he can repair the Sumlog.
Roy wanted to get his hair cut, so we walked to a barber shop in Kittery. A young woman cut his hair very quickly. Did a good job.
We continued walking to Portsmouth. Saw them raising and lowering the bridge, just after we'd crossed it. Went to the bus stop in town and boarded a bus half a minute before it took off. Went way out in the country. Came to a shopping center where there were several restaurants and fast-food places, so we got off. Four or five ambulances went tearing by with sirens screaming, so we figured there had been a major accident on the highway.
We went to a Friendly's Restaurant and ate delicious turkey sandwiches. I wanted a hot fudge sundae for dessert, but we thought there wasn't enough time. The bus back was due in ten minutes. If we missed that one, it would be a two-hour wait for the next, so we hurried over to the bus stop. As it turned out, I would have had time to eat a dozen sundaes; the bus was delayed by the accident and got there half an hour late.
Reached Portsmouth around six. Walked back to Kittery Point and got to the boat by 7:30, so it was still daylight. Ate a light supper of corn on the cob and chicken.
Paddled to the village dock. Roy went to the phone and called the guy at the electronics place. The Sumlog part had arrived, and he expected the switch cover around noon, so he asked Roy to call him back at 12:30.
Roy and I paddled around the nearby coves, enjoying the scenery. At noon, Roy returned to the dock to phone the electronics guy. I paddled a little more and then went in, too. The switch cover had arrived, and the man drove over with the parts. Roy was very pleased. At long last, he can repair the Sumlog.
Roy wanted to get his hair cut, so we walked to a barber shop in Kittery. A young woman cut his hair very quickly. Did a good job.
We continued walking to Portsmouth. Saw them raising and lowering the bridge, just after we'd crossed it. Went to the bus stop in town and boarded a bus half a minute before it took off. Went way out in the country. Came to a shopping center where there were several restaurants and fast-food places, so we got off. Four or five ambulances went tearing by with sirens screaming, so we figured there had been a major accident on the highway.
We went to a Friendly's Restaurant and ate delicious turkey sandwiches. I wanted a hot fudge sundae for dessert, but we thought there wasn't enough time. The bus back was due in ten minutes. If we missed that one, it would be a two-hour wait for the next, so we hurried over to the bus stop. As it turned out, I would have had time to eat a dozen sundaes; the bus was delayed by the accident and got there half an hour late.
Reached Portsmouth around six. Walked back to Kittery Point and got to the boat by 7:30, so it was still daylight. Ate a light supper of corn on the cob and chicken.
Tuesday, August 16, 2011
Tuesday, August 16, 1994 - Portsmouth, Maine
What a perfect day! Bright sunshine, blue sky, clear air, light wind. We couldn't have picked a better day if we'd tried.
The Gibsons arrived about 10:30. We were able to sail gently almost all the way to the Isles of Shoals. Dropped anchor, relaxed, ate lunch, enjoyed the scenery. The Isles of Shoals consists of several small islands. The largest is Appledore, which has a Marine Biology Lab of the University of Maine and also a church convention center. The next largest is Star, which has a large, verandahed hotel from the 1890's. A handful of people live on the islands yearround.
After lunch, we sailed back. The Gibsons really enjoyed the day and so did we.
The Gibsons arrived about 10:30. We were able to sail gently almost all the way to the Isles of Shoals. Dropped anchor, relaxed, ate lunch, enjoyed the scenery. The Isles of Shoals consists of several small islands. The largest is Appledore, which has a Marine Biology Lab of the University of Maine and also a church convention center. The next largest is Star, which has a large, verandahed hotel from the 1890's. A handful of people live on the islands yearround.
After lunch, we sailed back. The Gibsons really enjoyed the day and so did we.
Monday, August 15, 2011
Monday, August 15, 1994 - Portsmouth, Maine
Strong wind this morning but bright sunshine and clear air. We blew over to the town dock and pulled our Royaks up on a float.
Checked out the local grocery store, but it didn't have much to offer, so we walked the three miles in to Portsmouth. It was a lovely walk. We passed many old, old houses with large yards and tall green trees. It was New England at its best.
We stopped at a little marine electronics store, run by an old man. We wanted to replace the switch cover for the radar. He didn't have one, but said he could probably order it. Roy also asked him about a part he needs for the Sumlog. The old man phoned around and located it in Florida. He'll have it shipped here overnight. We'll phone him Wednesday morning to see if it arrived and to arrange to get it. The man said he could bring it to us at noon.
By the time we reached Portsmouth, we were famished, so we found a restaurant called "The Stock Pot" and ate delicious turkey sandwiches, made with real turkey, not turkey lunchmeat. Roy had pecan pie for desert, and I had the best gingerbread I've had in years.
Took a bus to a shopping center where there was a large, very nice super market with excellent produce. Bought about three times as much as we had intended. Somehow, Roy managed to combine it all into four bags. I put one in my backpack, and we carried the rest. The bus back to Portsmouth was late, and when it finally arrived, we didn't even recognize it as a bus. It was painted black and looked like a truck. But other people got on it, so we did too.
We had more groceries than we cared to carry, so we took a cab from Portsmouth to Kittery Point. The wind had died quite a bit, so we had no problem returning to the Jofian.
We had invited the Gibsons to go sailing with us tomorrow, so while I put the groceries away, Roy paddled over there to make the final arrangements. They'll take the launch out to the boat and get here about ten o'clock. We're going to go out to the Isles of Shoals.
Checked out the local grocery store, but it didn't have much to offer, so we walked the three miles in to Portsmouth. It was a lovely walk. We passed many old, old houses with large yards and tall green trees. It was New England at its best.
We stopped at a little marine electronics store, run by an old man. We wanted to replace the switch cover for the radar. He didn't have one, but said he could probably order it. Roy also asked him about a part he needs for the Sumlog. The old man phoned around and located it in Florida. He'll have it shipped here overnight. We'll phone him Wednesday morning to see if it arrived and to arrange to get it. The man said he could bring it to us at noon.
By the time we reached Portsmouth, we were famished, so we found a restaurant called "The Stock Pot" and ate delicious turkey sandwiches, made with real turkey, not turkey lunchmeat. Roy had pecan pie for desert, and I had the best gingerbread I've had in years.
Took a bus to a shopping center where there was a large, very nice super market with excellent produce. Bought about three times as much as we had intended. Somehow, Roy managed to combine it all into four bags. I put one in my backpack, and we carried the rest. The bus back to Portsmouth was late, and when it finally arrived, we didn't even recognize it as a bus. It was painted black and looked like a truck. But other people got on it, so we did too.
We had more groceries than we cared to carry, so we took a cab from Portsmouth to Kittery Point. The wind had died quite a bit, so we had no problem returning to the Jofian.
We had invited the Gibsons to go sailing with us tomorrow, so while I put the groceries away, Roy paddled over there to make the final arrangements. They'll take the launch out to the boat and get here about ten o'clock. We're going to go out to the Isles of Shoals.
Sunday, August 14, 2011
Sunday, August 14, 1994 - Portsmouth, Maine
We started paddling to downtown Portsmouth, which is about three miles from the anchorage and on the opposite side of the harbor. The wind was blowing about twenty knots against us, but we could have dealt with that. What we couldn't deal with was the powerful outgoing tide. We fought it about halfway to Portsmouth and then gave up and turned back.
Roy turned back first. He went across to Seavey Island, so he'd be on the north side of the harbor and wouldn't get swept out to sea when he crossed the harbor entrance. I tried to keep going, but as soon as I passed the next point, I got caught by tidal currents that were twice as strong as the ones we'd been in. No matter how hard I paddled, I kept going backwards. After five or ten minutes of paddling with all my strength, I gave up and let the wind carry me across to Seavey Island.
Going back was a cinch. All I had to do was steer. I went around the east end of Seavey and then crossed the channel to Kittery Point. I thought Roy would already be on the Jofian, but I didn't see his Royak, so I paddled to the dinghy dock to see if he was there. No sign of his Royak, so I continued following the shore into the next cove. When I didn't see him there, I turned back to the dinghy dock. I was going to go to the grocery store, but a man on the dock told me he had seen another yellow kayak out among the boats, so I paddled back to the Jofian. This time, Roy was there. It turned out Roy had paddled halfway around Seavey Island, expecting to meet me coming the other way, which was what I had originally intended to do. He spent half an hour or so waiting for me over there, so he was actually in back of me instead of ahead of me. Anyway, we finally found each other.
After lunch and a rest, we set out again. By then, the tide was coming in and the wind wasn't quite as strong. Instead of going to Portsmouth, we went to the ramp at Kittery Point, which was very easy to get to. When we got to the grocery store, it was closed, so we crossed the street and made a couple of phone calls. I talked with my daughter Kathy, and Roy left a message on his son Steve's answering machine.
Then we walked a short distance to Fort McClary, which is right on the point, with a commanding view of both the harbor and the river. There have been fortifications there since 1720, but none of the original buildings are still standing. There are a few structures that were built in the 1800's, including a blockhouse, which was already obsolete at the time they built it. It was interesting and had a great view, but couldn't compare with the fortifications we had seen near Portland.
When we got back to the boat, we found a note from Randall, saying he would pick us up at seven for dinner at his place. He's been renting a house on the point for a couple of weeks. We got dressed and were waiting for him when he arrived. This time, he drove his boat at a more moderate pace.
We were introduced to his wife, Bonnie, and a Russian guest, Igor. Natasha showed us around the house, which was built in 1740! It was lovely. Most of the original house has been preserved, but it has modern plumbing, heating, electricity, etc. The Gibsons have two parrots, Banjo and Boomerang, and a cute little dog. Supper was delicious and conversation lively. By the time we were ready to leave, it was ten o'clock and the wind was blowing like crazy. Randall hesitated to take us back in the motorboat, since it was pitch dark and he was afraid of running into lobster-pot lines, so he drove us to the yacht club to see if we could get a ride out to the boat in the club launch. On Sundays, the launch stops running at nine, but there was a couple there who were about to return to their boat and said they'd drop us off. We assumed they had a motorboat, but it turned out they just had a little rubber dinghy with oars. Fortunately, the wind was no longer blowing very hard, but it was still quite a long ways to row. The man didn't seem to have a problem, however. He rowed us out to the Jofian in fifteen or twenty minutes. It was certainly nice of him. We were very glad our masthead light had come on automatically. It was the only lighted masthead light in the cove, so that made finding the Jofian easy.
Roy turned back first. He went across to Seavey Island, so he'd be on the north side of the harbor and wouldn't get swept out to sea when he crossed the harbor entrance. I tried to keep going, but as soon as I passed the next point, I got caught by tidal currents that were twice as strong as the ones we'd been in. No matter how hard I paddled, I kept going backwards. After five or ten minutes of paddling with all my strength, I gave up and let the wind carry me across to Seavey Island.
Going back was a cinch. All I had to do was steer. I went around the east end of Seavey and then crossed the channel to Kittery Point. I thought Roy would already be on the Jofian, but I didn't see his Royak, so I paddled to the dinghy dock to see if he was there. No sign of his Royak, so I continued following the shore into the next cove. When I didn't see him there, I turned back to the dinghy dock. I was going to go to the grocery store, but a man on the dock told me he had seen another yellow kayak out among the boats, so I paddled back to the Jofian. This time, Roy was there. It turned out Roy had paddled halfway around Seavey Island, expecting to meet me coming the other way, which was what I had originally intended to do. He spent half an hour or so waiting for me over there, so he was actually in back of me instead of ahead of me. Anyway, we finally found each other.
After lunch and a rest, we set out again. By then, the tide was coming in and the wind wasn't quite as strong. Instead of going to Portsmouth, we went to the ramp at Kittery Point, which was very easy to get to. When we got to the grocery store, it was closed, so we crossed the street and made a couple of phone calls. I talked with my daughter Kathy, and Roy left a message on his son Steve's answering machine.
Then we walked a short distance to Fort McClary, which is right on the point, with a commanding view of both the harbor and the river. There have been fortifications there since 1720, but none of the original buildings are still standing. There are a few structures that were built in the 1800's, including a blockhouse, which was already obsolete at the time they built it. It was interesting and had a great view, but couldn't compare with the fortifications we had seen near Portland.
When we got back to the boat, we found a note from Randall, saying he would pick us up at seven for dinner at his place. He's been renting a house on the point for a couple of weeks. We got dressed and were waiting for him when he arrived. This time, he drove his boat at a more moderate pace.
We were introduced to his wife, Bonnie, and a Russian guest, Igor. Natasha showed us around the house, which was built in 1740! It was lovely. Most of the original house has been preserved, but it has modern plumbing, heating, electricity, etc. The Gibsons have two parrots, Banjo and Boomerang, and a cute little dog. Supper was delicious and conversation lively. By the time we were ready to leave, it was ten o'clock and the wind was blowing like crazy. Randall hesitated to take us back in the motorboat, since it was pitch dark and he was afraid of running into lobster-pot lines, so he drove us to the yacht club to see if we could get a ride out to the boat in the club launch. On Sundays, the launch stops running at nine, but there was a couple there who were about to return to their boat and said they'd drop us off. We assumed they had a motorboat, but it turned out they just had a little rubber dinghy with oars. Fortunately, the wind was no longer blowing very hard, but it was still quite a long ways to row. The man didn't seem to have a problem, however. He rowed us out to the Jofian in fifteen or twenty minutes. It was certainly nice of him. We were very glad our masthead light had come on automatically. It was the only lighted masthead light in the cove, so that made finding the Jofian easy.
Saturday, August 13, 2011
Saturday, August 13, 1994 - Portsmouth, Maine
Awoke to fog and light rain. The weather forecast said strong southwest winds tomorrow. We had no protection whatsoever from the southwest, so we decided to move down to Portsmouth, about twenty miles farther south, where there's a large, well-protected harbor.
We motored all the way against a light headwind. Had to use the radar most of the day to see where we were going, but by the time we approached Portsmouth Harbor, most of the fog had lifted, and we had two or three miles of visibility. The GPS and the autopilot did a good job of getting us there.
We dropped anchor in Pepperrell Cove around three o'clock. A few minutes later, a small motorboat with a middle-aged man and a teenaged girl in it pulled up a few feet away. I was in the cockpit, and I heard the man saying something about "Roy's Royaks", so I looked out and said something in reply. Roy came up from the main cabin and poked his head out, too. Turned out the man was Randall Gibson, who had known Roy many years ago, in the early days of Royaks. The girl was his daughter, Natasha. Randall had purchased ten Royaks, four of which he used on the research boat, Heraclitus, that he had built.
Of course, we invited them aboard, showed them the Jofian, and chatted a while. Then Randall offered us a tour of the harbor in his motorboat. We eagerly accepted, little knowing what we were getting into. This is quite a large harbor, and Randall took us from one end of it to the other, pointing out places of interest. There's a large Navy base here, and a huge Naval prison that is no longer in use and looks like a grand hotel.
The rain had pretty much stopped, but the air was cool and the water cold, so Roy and I wore jackets, which turned out to be wise. Most of the time, Randall drove at a moderate speed, but every once in a while, he cranked it up and went ninety-to-nothing. We were hanging on for dear life and blamming up and down on the hard wooden seats. Once, he went through another powerboat's wake at a right angle, and a wall of water came over the bow and soaked us to the skin. Roy and I were afraid the boat would fill with water and sink, but it didn't. Randall dropped his half-frozen daughter off at their dock and then took us back to the Jofian. We were very glad to get inside, dry off, and change clothes. What an introduction to Portsmouth!
We had planned on going to a grocery store, but we no sooner were back on the boat than the rain started coming down again. We had had enough wet for one day, so we decided to stay on the boat and eat sardines for supper.
Roy got out his Royak album and found a letter Randall had written to him in 1976. This brought back a lot of memories, and Roy began remembering Randall a lot more clearly.
We motored all the way against a light headwind. Had to use the radar most of the day to see where we were going, but by the time we approached Portsmouth Harbor, most of the fog had lifted, and we had two or three miles of visibility. The GPS and the autopilot did a good job of getting us there.
We dropped anchor in Pepperrell Cove around three o'clock. A few minutes later, a small motorboat with a middle-aged man and a teenaged girl in it pulled up a few feet away. I was in the cockpit, and I heard the man saying something about "Roy's Royaks", so I looked out and said something in reply. Roy came up from the main cabin and poked his head out, too. Turned out the man was Randall Gibson, who had known Roy many years ago, in the early days of Royaks. The girl was his daughter, Natasha. Randall had purchased ten Royaks, four of which he used on the research boat, Heraclitus, that he had built.
Of course, we invited them aboard, showed them the Jofian, and chatted a while. Then Randall offered us a tour of the harbor in his motorboat. We eagerly accepted, little knowing what we were getting into. This is quite a large harbor, and Randall took us from one end of it to the other, pointing out places of interest. There's a large Navy base here, and a huge Naval prison that is no longer in use and looks like a grand hotel.
The rain had pretty much stopped, but the air was cool and the water cold, so Roy and I wore jackets, which turned out to be wise. Most of the time, Randall drove at a moderate speed, but every once in a while, he cranked it up and went ninety-to-nothing. We were hanging on for dear life and blamming up and down on the hard wooden seats. Once, he went through another powerboat's wake at a right angle, and a wall of water came over the bow and soaked us to the skin. Roy and I were afraid the boat would fill with water and sink, but it didn't. Randall dropped his half-frozen daughter off at their dock and then took us back to the Jofian. We were very glad to get inside, dry off, and change clothes. What an introduction to Portsmouth!
We had planned on going to a grocery store, but we no sooner were back on the boat than the rain started coming down again. We had had enough wet for one day, so we decided to stay on the boat and eat sardines for supper.
Roy got out his Royak album and found a letter Randall had written to him in 1976. This brought back a lot of memories, and Roy began remembering Randall a lot more clearly.
Friday, August 12, 2011
Friday, August 12, 1994 - Kennebunk, Maine
Sunny and calm again this morning. Paddled to House Island, so I could see the fortifications Roy explored yesterday. I wasn't disappointed. They were remarkable. Large vaulted chambers connected by long, dark passageways. Pitch dark dungeons where munitions had been stored. Beautiful arches everywhere you looked. Even a spiral stone staircase. The construction was amazing--huge granite blocks and tens of thousands of bricks. It had been built to last forever. We'd like to know more about its history.
At noon, we returned to the boat and weighed anchor. We're on our way back south. Motorsailed to Kennebunk. When we were almost there, Roy asked me to lower the mainsail. After doing so and putting on the gaskets and taking in the lazyjacks, I returned to the cockpit and was astonished to discovered that, for some unfathomable reason, Roy had changed course and zoomed over to Cape Porpoise, which is fine if you want to go to Cape Porpoise but not so fine if your intention is to go to Kennebunk, several miles away. Anyway, when he was satisfied as to our position, he turned around and headed for Kennebunk. We dropped anchor off the beach shortly before dark. The tide was going out, and we had put out too much chain. When we got down to 6.2 feet, Roy went out and pulled up forty feet of chain.
At noon, we returned to the boat and weighed anchor. We're on our way back south. Motorsailed to Kennebunk. When we were almost there, Roy asked me to lower the mainsail. After doing so and putting on the gaskets and taking in the lazyjacks, I returned to the cockpit and was astonished to discovered that, for some unfathomable reason, Roy had changed course and zoomed over to Cape Porpoise, which is fine if you want to go to Cape Porpoise but not so fine if your intention is to go to Kennebunk, several miles away. Anyway, when he was satisfied as to our position, he turned around and headed for Kennebunk. We dropped anchor off the beach shortly before dark. The tide was going out, and we had put out too much chain. When we got down to 6.2 feet, Roy went out and pulled up forty feet of chain.
Thursday, August 11, 2011
Thursday, August 11, 1994 - Peaks Island, Maine
This morning, we paddled over to Fort Gorges, which was built in 1858 on a tiny island in the middle of Portland Harbor. At high tide, the island disappears, so the fort seems to rise out of the water, but at low tide, there's a little fringe of sand and rock around it. We got there at low tide, so there was room for our Royaks. We'd been afraid the place would be all boarded up, but it wasn't. People are allowed in at their own risk.
We were greatly impressed by its construction. It was built to last forever. It was made of huge blocks of granite and reinforced brick. A caretaker lived there until 1916, and the Army stored ammunition there during World War II. Today, it's abandoned but still in remarkably good shape.
We climbed three flights of stone steps and explored the entire building. The third level is covered with dirt, trees, and bushes. We found a huge old cannon up there.
Twice, I had to return to my Royak to pull it up out of the rapidly advancing water. On one of my trips, Roy explored a dungeon on his own and got lost! He was really scared, but finally he found his way out.
The tide was coming in so fast that we had to hurry up and leave. We paddled over to House Island, which also has some fortifications on it, but they are less accessible. Most of the island is privately owned and is posted, but Roy went ashore at a place that didn't have any "No Trespassing" signs and explored the fortresses, which are mostly underground. I stayed in my Royak. Roy said these were even larger and more elaborate than Fort Gorges, though they look small from the outside.
Went back to Peaks Island and mailed the post cards Roy had written. Ate lunch at a tiny restaurant that had remarkably low prices and good food. We kept wondering how they stayed in business.
Took the 2:45 ferry to Portland. This time, we went on the $3 tour of the Jeremiah O'Brien. It was very interesting. We were even allowed down into the engine room.
Took a bus to Shop 'n' Save, bought a few groceries, and caught a bus back. Got to see parts of Portland we hadn't seen before.
Returned to Peaks Island on the 7:15 ferry and paddled back to the boat before dark.
We were greatly impressed by its construction. It was built to last forever. It was made of huge blocks of granite and reinforced brick. A caretaker lived there until 1916, and the Army stored ammunition there during World War II. Today, it's abandoned but still in remarkably good shape.
We climbed three flights of stone steps and explored the entire building. The third level is covered with dirt, trees, and bushes. We found a huge old cannon up there.
Twice, I had to return to my Royak to pull it up out of the rapidly advancing water. On one of my trips, Roy explored a dungeon on his own and got lost! He was really scared, but finally he found his way out.
The tide was coming in so fast that we had to hurry up and leave. We paddled over to House Island, which also has some fortifications on it, but they are less accessible. Most of the island is privately owned and is posted, but Roy went ashore at a place that didn't have any "No Trespassing" signs and explored the fortresses, which are mostly underground. I stayed in my Royak. Roy said these were even larger and more elaborate than Fort Gorges, though they look small from the outside.
Went back to Peaks Island and mailed the post cards Roy had written. Ate lunch at a tiny restaurant that had remarkably low prices and good food. We kept wondering how they stayed in business.
Took the 2:45 ferry to Portland. This time, we went on the $3 tour of the Jeremiah O'Brien. It was very interesting. We were even allowed down into the engine room.
Took a bus to Shop 'n' Save, bought a few groceries, and caught a bus back. Got to see parts of Portland we hadn't seen before.
Returned to Peaks Island on the 7:15 ferry and paddled back to the boat before dark.
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
Wednesday, August 10, 1994 - Peaks Island, Maine
For some reason, we both overslept this morning. I didn't get up until 8:30, which is a couple of hours later than I usually get up. It was nearly ten o'clock by the time Roy got up! He couldn't believe it. Neither could I.
After breakfast, Roy installed the new capacitor in the generator, but it still didn't generate, so he removed it.
We just barely made the 12:45 ferry. We had planned on touring the Liberty Ship, Jeremiah O'Brien, today, but when we got there, it turned out they're not having regular tours today. Instead, they're having a three-hour cruise at fifty dollars a head! We said goodbye to that one in a hurry.
Took the capacitor back and got a refund. Went to various places looking for a head gasket. Every place we went, Roy recited the entire tale of woe regarding the generator, until I was ready to run off screaming.
We wanted to try a lobster dinner at a good restaurant to find out what lobster should taste like and how it should be prepared. We had a brochure for a seafood restaurant in South Portland that sounded really good, so we went there. Were we ever disappointed! They used paper plates and plastic knives and forks, the melted butter tasted like lard, and the lobsters didn't even taste as good as the ones we'd had on the boat. I don't know what's happened to lobsters. When I was a kid, they were delicious, and the one Daddy treated me to in San Jose twenty odd years ago was scrumptious, but nowadays they don't seem to have any flavor at all.
We missed the 5:35 ferry, so we had to take the 7:15, which turned out to be a much smaller one. When we got to Peaks Island, we enjoyed some delicious ice cream at the little store on the corner. Paddled back to the boat just before dark.
After breakfast, Roy installed the new capacitor in the generator, but it still didn't generate, so he removed it.
We just barely made the 12:45 ferry. We had planned on touring the Liberty Ship, Jeremiah O'Brien, today, but when we got there, it turned out they're not having regular tours today. Instead, they're having a three-hour cruise at fifty dollars a head! We said goodbye to that one in a hurry.
Took the capacitor back and got a refund. Went to various places looking for a head gasket. Every place we went, Roy recited the entire tale of woe regarding the generator, until I was ready to run off screaming.
We wanted to try a lobster dinner at a good restaurant to find out what lobster should taste like and how it should be prepared. We had a brochure for a seafood restaurant in South Portland that sounded really good, so we went there. Were we ever disappointed! They used paper plates and plastic knives and forks, the melted butter tasted like lard, and the lobsters didn't even taste as good as the ones we'd had on the boat. I don't know what's happened to lobsters. When I was a kid, they were delicious, and the one Daddy treated me to in San Jose twenty odd years ago was scrumptious, but nowadays they don't seem to have any flavor at all.
We missed the 5:35 ferry, so we had to take the 7:15, which turned out to be a much smaller one. When we got to Peaks Island, we enjoyed some delicious ice cream at the little store on the corner. Paddled back to the boat just before dark.
Tuesday, August 9, 2011
Tuesday, August 9, 1994 - Peaks Island, Maine
Another beautiful day! We've really been lucky on the weather--
three perfect days in a row.
We slowly motored six or seven miles to Peaks Island, which is inhabited and close to Portland. Dropped anchor off the eastern side.
Roy wanted to write a bunch of postcards, so he stayed on the boat while I paddled ashore and took the ferry to Portland, a fifteen-
minute ride. Like the Staten Island ferry, they only charge in one direction. I rode to Portland for free, but to return to the island cost $2.25. Luckily, as it turned out, I bought my ticket as soon as I got off the ferry.
My main project, I thought, was to buy a new capacitor for the generator. (Later, Roy told me he just wanted to have the capacitor tested. Why didn't he tell me that in the first place?) I phoned a bunch of likely places from the terminal, but none had it. Some suggested Grainger on Warren Avenue, so I went there. Warren Avenue was the street the car-rental agency was on, so I knew how to get there. Took the #4 bus to Riverside and then walked a mile or so in the blazing sun. Grainger had the capacitor in their catalog but didn't have any in stock. They suggested I try Electric Motorworks on Forest, so off I went again for another mile or two of walking in the hot sun. Stopped at every likely place along the way, but no luck. When I came to a McDonald's, I went in for a lobster sandwich and a strawberry shake. The sandwich had big chunks of lobster meat in it.
Finally got to Electric Motorworks. They didn't have the identical capacitor, but they had a similar one that they assured me would do the job. They also said I could return it if it didn't work, so I bought it.
First mission accomplished, so I started on the second. When we were getting ready to leave Fairhaven, Roy asked my permission to disassemble my folding bike. I was busy fixing supper, so I told him okay. Mistake. I had taken my bike apart many times with no problem. The one time Roy took it apart, the left pedal bounced into the water. Bye bye. So I'd looked up a Schwinn dealer in the phone book and had gone there the day I returned the car, but they were closed on Sunday. Today is Tuesday, so I figured they'd be open. I could easily have taken the bus, but it was only a few blocks--might as well walk. The bus zoomed by when I was halfway there. After another mile or two of walking, I finally got to the bicycle shop. They only sell pedals in pairs, so I bought a pair. Now I've got a spare right pedal in case Roy drops that one in the water.
The only other thing I wanted to do in Portland was pick up a few groceries, so I headed for a Shop 'n' Save, which was on the way back to the ferry terminal. Again, I could have taken a bus, but it was only a few blocks, so I walked. By the time I reached the store, it was after five o'clock. I checked the ferry schedule and saw that one left at 5:35. After that, there wasn't one until 7:15! I knew that if I took the time to buy groceries, I'd miss the 5:35. In fact, I'd probably miss it anyway. I debated whether I should buy groceries and take the 7:15, or let the groceries go and make a mad dash for the ferry. Decided on the mad dash, since I could always return to the grocery store if I missed the ferry.
This time, I took the bus. By luck, one came along just as I reached the stop. Got off on Congress Street, which was as close as that bus went to the ferry terminal. I still had eight or ten blocks to go, and it was 5:25. Zoom, zoom. Walked as fast as I could. Fortunately, it was all downhill. Strolling pedestrians kept getting in my way, and I had a hard time getting across busy streets, but I kept zooming. Reached the ferry terminal at 5:33, just as a ferry tooted and pulled away from the dock. I felt sure that was the Peaks Island ferry, but then I saw another ferry still tied to the dock, so I rushed over to it and down the ramp, just as the guys were getting ready to raise the gangplank. I yelled, "Is this the Peaks Island ferry?" To my surprise and joy, a man said it was. I leaped on, they pulled up the gangplank, and the ferry took off. What a relief to be on my way back to Peaks Island!
As we approached the dock, I saw Roy paddling in. Waved to him, but he didn't see me until I'd gotten off the ferry. By then, he was at a small, floating dock close to the ferry dock. I went over to where I could talk with him. He wanted to explore Peaks Island, so he tied his Royak to another small dock.
We walked around a little. Saw a restaurant that had lobster dinners for $12.95! Also saw a notice of a slide show that evening on the history of Peaks Island, so we decided to go to that before dinner. After inquiring of passersby, we finally found the place where the slide show was to be held. It was the headquarters of the Fifth Maine Civil War Regiment. The building had been built in 1888 and housed a lot of old photographs and memorabilia. The slide show was presented by a woman who had lived all her life on Peaks Island. She really knew its history. Didn't even use notes.
By the time the show was over, it was eight o'clock and getting dark and cold. Roy still wanted a lobster dinner, but I wanted to get back to the boat. I wasn't really hungry anyway, so it would have been a waste. We bought a couple of frozen dinners at the IGA and returned to our respective Royaks.
It was pretty dark, and my little light no longer worked. I paddled over to a well-lighted dock, so people could see me. To my horror, a cabin cruiser at the dock suddenly started backing up towards me! I yelled, and the woman on the stern yelled. Then the helmsman saw me, but he continued backing up. He seemed to be aiming for me--when I turned, he turned in the same direction. I paddled backwards as fast as I could. Finally, he turned and went forward. What a relief! I hugged the shore until I was opposite the Jofian, which was the only boat in the area with a masthead light lit, and then made a dash for it. While I was pulling my Royak up, Roy arrived. He had seen a boat coming at him and had hidden behind a buoy until it went by. We were both relieved to be back on the boat.
three perfect days in a row.
We slowly motored six or seven miles to Peaks Island, which is inhabited and close to Portland. Dropped anchor off the eastern side.
Roy wanted to write a bunch of postcards, so he stayed on the boat while I paddled ashore and took the ferry to Portland, a fifteen-
minute ride. Like the Staten Island ferry, they only charge in one direction. I rode to Portland for free, but to return to the island cost $2.25. Luckily, as it turned out, I bought my ticket as soon as I got off the ferry.
My main project, I thought, was to buy a new capacitor for the generator. (Later, Roy told me he just wanted to have the capacitor tested. Why didn't he tell me that in the first place?) I phoned a bunch of likely places from the terminal, but none had it. Some suggested Grainger on Warren Avenue, so I went there. Warren Avenue was the street the car-rental agency was on, so I knew how to get there. Took the #4 bus to Riverside and then walked a mile or so in the blazing sun. Grainger had the capacitor in their catalog but didn't have any in stock. They suggested I try Electric Motorworks on Forest, so off I went again for another mile or two of walking in the hot sun. Stopped at every likely place along the way, but no luck. When I came to a McDonald's, I went in for a lobster sandwich and a strawberry shake. The sandwich had big chunks of lobster meat in it.
Finally got to Electric Motorworks. They didn't have the identical capacitor, but they had a similar one that they assured me would do the job. They also said I could return it if it didn't work, so I bought it.
First mission accomplished, so I started on the second. When we were getting ready to leave Fairhaven, Roy asked my permission to disassemble my folding bike. I was busy fixing supper, so I told him okay. Mistake. I had taken my bike apart many times with no problem. The one time Roy took it apart, the left pedal bounced into the water. Bye bye. So I'd looked up a Schwinn dealer in the phone book and had gone there the day I returned the car, but they were closed on Sunday. Today is Tuesday, so I figured they'd be open. I could easily have taken the bus, but it was only a few blocks--might as well walk. The bus zoomed by when I was halfway there. After another mile or two of walking, I finally got to the bicycle shop. They only sell pedals in pairs, so I bought a pair. Now I've got a spare right pedal in case Roy drops that one in the water.
The only other thing I wanted to do in Portland was pick up a few groceries, so I headed for a Shop 'n' Save, which was on the way back to the ferry terminal. Again, I could have taken a bus, but it was only a few blocks, so I walked. By the time I reached the store, it was after five o'clock. I checked the ferry schedule and saw that one left at 5:35. After that, there wasn't one until 7:15! I knew that if I took the time to buy groceries, I'd miss the 5:35. In fact, I'd probably miss it anyway. I debated whether I should buy groceries and take the 7:15, or let the groceries go and make a mad dash for the ferry. Decided on the mad dash, since I could always return to the grocery store if I missed the ferry.
This time, I took the bus. By luck, one came along just as I reached the stop. Got off on Congress Street, which was as close as that bus went to the ferry terminal. I still had eight or ten blocks to go, and it was 5:25. Zoom, zoom. Walked as fast as I could. Fortunately, it was all downhill. Strolling pedestrians kept getting in my way, and I had a hard time getting across busy streets, but I kept zooming. Reached the ferry terminal at 5:33, just as a ferry tooted and pulled away from the dock. I felt sure that was the Peaks Island ferry, but then I saw another ferry still tied to the dock, so I rushed over to it and down the ramp, just as the guys were getting ready to raise the gangplank. I yelled, "Is this the Peaks Island ferry?" To my surprise and joy, a man said it was. I leaped on, they pulled up the gangplank, and the ferry took off. What a relief to be on my way back to Peaks Island!
As we approached the dock, I saw Roy paddling in. Waved to him, but he didn't see me until I'd gotten off the ferry. By then, he was at a small, floating dock close to the ferry dock. I went over to where I could talk with him. He wanted to explore Peaks Island, so he tied his Royak to another small dock.
We walked around a little. Saw a restaurant that had lobster dinners for $12.95! Also saw a notice of a slide show that evening on the history of Peaks Island, so we decided to go to that before dinner. After inquiring of passersby, we finally found the place where the slide show was to be held. It was the headquarters of the Fifth Maine Civil War Regiment. The building had been built in 1888 and housed a lot of old photographs and memorabilia. The slide show was presented by a woman who had lived all her life on Peaks Island. She really knew its history. Didn't even use notes.
By the time the show was over, it was eight o'clock and getting dark and cold. Roy still wanted a lobster dinner, but I wanted to get back to the boat. I wasn't really hungry anyway, so it would have been a waste. We bought a couple of frozen dinners at the IGA and returned to our respective Royaks.
It was pretty dark, and my little light no longer worked. I paddled over to a well-lighted dock, so people could see me. To my horror, a cabin cruiser at the dock suddenly started backing up towards me! I yelled, and the woman on the stern yelled. Then the helmsman saw me, but he continued backing up. He seemed to be aiming for me--when I turned, he turned in the same direction. I paddled backwards as fast as I could. Finally, he turned and went forward. What a relief! I hugged the shore until I was opposite the Jofian, which was the only boat in the area with a masthead light lit, and then made a dash for it. While I was pulling my Royak up, Roy arrived. He had seen a boat coming at him and had hidden behind a buoy until it went by. We were both relieved to be back on the boat.
Monday, August 8, 2011
Monday, August 8, 1994 - Jewell Island, Maine
What a lovely place to wake up in! The sun is shining, the water is calm, we're surrounded by little islands. Everything is peaceful and quiet.
Tim and his wife rowed over. They're leaving this morning, so we had to return the book, even though we'd barely had a chance to look at it. It's really interesting. Tells all about these islands.
We got in our Royaks and paddled completely around Jewell Island. Then we ate lunch and went ashore to explore. During World War II, the Army built a lookout post here to protect Portland Harbor. The two lookout towers are still here. We climbed to the top of both of them. One was twice as tall as the other and still in excellent condition. What a terrific view! We could look way out over the ocean. From other sides, we could look at endless islands.
Found an old, solidly built bunker. Roy had brought a small flashlight, so we explored it. The rooms were dark and spooky, and there were a lot of dangerous holes one could fall into. It's surprising the State of Maine, which now owns the island, hasn't covered them up.
We followed various paths and saw lots of collapsed buildings that had been barracks, boiler rooms, etc. Came out on the beach on the other side of the island. By then, it was five o'clock, so we returned to the Royaks and paddled to neighboring Cliff Island, which is inhabited. Bought a couple of lobsters, because we couldn't spend all this time in Maine and not eat a lobster. Roy was sure he knew how to cook them, but I think he overcooked them. They were mushy and not very tasty.
Tim and his wife rowed over. They're leaving this morning, so we had to return the book, even though we'd barely had a chance to look at it. It's really interesting. Tells all about these islands.
We got in our Royaks and paddled completely around Jewell Island. Then we ate lunch and went ashore to explore. During World War II, the Army built a lookout post here to protect Portland Harbor. The two lookout towers are still here. We climbed to the top of both of them. One was twice as tall as the other and still in excellent condition. What a terrific view! We could look way out over the ocean. From other sides, we could look at endless islands.
Found an old, solidly built bunker. Roy had brought a small flashlight, so we explored it. The rooms were dark and spooky, and there were a lot of dangerous holes one could fall into. It's surprising the State of Maine, which now owns the island, hasn't covered them up.
We followed various paths and saw lots of collapsed buildings that had been barracks, boiler rooms, etc. Came out on the beach on the other side of the island. By then, it was five o'clock, so we returned to the Royaks and paddled to neighboring Cliff Island, which is inhabited. Bought a couple of lobsters, because we couldn't spend all this time in Maine and not eat a lobster. Roy was sure he knew how to cook them, but I think he overcooked them. They were mushy and not very tasty.
Sunday, August 7, 2011
Sunday, August 7, 1994 - Jewell Island, Maine
Another beautiful day. Quite calm, bright sun, pleasant temperature. We plan on spending a few days cruising among the islands of Casco Bay before heading back to Fairhaven.
Took the dirty clothes to the laundromat first thing this morning. It was sure easy, using the car. There's a nice park across the street, so I strolled around it while the clothes washed.
The generator's having problems again. Roy's been working on it and has gotten it to run, but it isn't producing electricity. He thinks the problem is the capacitor, so we drove to Radio Shack to see if they had one, but they didn't. They suggested an automotive electronics supply store, but it isn't open on Sunday.
One of the problems I overlooked when I rented the car yesterday is the fact that most of the buses don't run on Sunday, including the one we took going to the rental agency. Fortunately, another bus, not too far away, runs once an hour on Sunday. I left Roy at the boat and took the car back. Walked very fast to the bus stop. I was hoping to catch the 12:17, so I wouldn't have to wait an hour for the next one. Turned out, the stop wasn't as far away as I had thought. Got there in plenty of time. Had to wait fifteen minutes for the bus. Rode to downtown Portland and then walked across the bridge to South Portland. None of the South Portland buses run on Sunday.
It was a few minutes after one when I reached the boat. Took a quick shower, turned in the key, and took off. Had no trouble getting away from the dock and through the channel. Went right by an old Liberty Ship that was built here during World War II and is open to the public today. A lot of people waved to us and we waved back.
Such a clear, bright day! We finally got to see all the scenery we had missed coming in through the fog. Easy to find our way today.
As soon as we got out of the harbor, we raised the mainsail and headsail and turned off the engine. The breeze was light, but we had plenty of time. Moved along at two to three knots.
Reached Jewell Island about six o'clock. A lot of boats were already in the tiny harbor, so we anchored just outside. This is a small, uninhabited island, one of many off the coast of Maine. There are hundreds of small islands in Casco Bay alone, and most of them are uninhabited. It's going to be fun visiting them.
As soon as we got here, Roy got in his Royak and went exploring. I put the clean clothes away and then took a nap. For some reason, I felt very sleepy. By the time Roy returned, it was getting pretty cold. A man from a nearby boat rowed over and loaned us a book on the Maine Coast.
Took the dirty clothes to the laundromat first thing this morning. It was sure easy, using the car. There's a nice park across the street, so I strolled around it while the clothes washed.
The generator's having problems again. Roy's been working on it and has gotten it to run, but it isn't producing electricity. He thinks the problem is the capacitor, so we drove to Radio Shack to see if they had one, but they didn't. They suggested an automotive electronics supply store, but it isn't open on Sunday.
One of the problems I overlooked when I rented the car yesterday is the fact that most of the buses don't run on Sunday, including the one we took going to the rental agency. Fortunately, another bus, not too far away, runs once an hour on Sunday. I left Roy at the boat and took the car back. Walked very fast to the bus stop. I was hoping to catch the 12:17, so I wouldn't have to wait an hour for the next one. Turned out, the stop wasn't as far away as I had thought. Got there in plenty of time. Had to wait fifteen minutes for the bus. Rode to downtown Portland and then walked across the bridge to South Portland. None of the South Portland buses run on Sunday.
It was a few minutes after one when I reached the boat. Took a quick shower, turned in the key, and took off. Had no trouble getting away from the dock and through the channel. Went right by an old Liberty Ship that was built here during World War II and is open to the public today. A lot of people waved to us and we waved back.
Such a clear, bright day! We finally got to see all the scenery we had missed coming in through the fog. Easy to find our way today.
As soon as we got out of the harbor, we raised the mainsail and headsail and turned off the engine. The breeze was light, but we had plenty of time. Moved along at two to three knots.
Reached Jewell Island about six o'clock. A lot of boats were already in the tiny harbor, so we anchored just outside. This is a small, uninhabited island, one of many off the coast of Maine. There are hundreds of small islands in Casco Bay alone, and most of them are uninhabited. It's going to be fun visiting them.
As soon as we got here, Roy got in his Royak and went exploring. I put the clean clothes away and then took a nap. For some reason, I felt very sleepy. By the time Roy returned, it was getting pretty cold. A man from a nearby boat rowed over and loaned us a book on the Maine Coast.
Saturday, August 6, 2011
Saturday, August 6, 1994 - Portland, Maine
Awoke to blue sky and sunshine. The day was absolutely glorious! We couldn't have asked for a more perfect day.
Enterprise was out of their low-priced cars. Phoned around and finally got one from Agency Car Rental for $30. Unfortunately, they weren't able to deliver, so we had to ride the bus to Forest and Warren and then walk a mile or so to the agency.
The car ran just fine. Drove out 302 and stopped at a little grocery store/filling station. Put gas in the tank and bought sandwiches and stuff for lunch. Highland Lake is surrounded by private property, but there is one public road to the edge of the lake, so we drove down that and ate lunch sitting on a big rock. The lake was beautiful and looked just the way Roy remembered it. He and his brother Ken used to come here with their grandmother to stay in a little cottage his Aunt Madeleine owned. The kids built a raft and poled it down to the lower end of the lake, where they caught bullfrogs. Sometimes, they were able to borrow a rowboat from a neighbor and row it around. Once, they found a bunch of money in an abandoned ice house. They had lots of fun here.
We drove completely around the lake twice, but could only get close to the water in a couple of places. Found what might have been the very cottage Roy used to stay in. It looked a lot like it and was in the right location. As usual, I forgot my camera.
Drove farther out in the country. Stopped at a lovely rest area that was closed, which seems odd. Pumped some good water from an old pump. Relaxed and enjoyed.
Got a little lost returning to the boat, but eventually found it. Went to a super market at a nearby shopping center and loaded up with groceries.
Enterprise was out of their low-priced cars. Phoned around and finally got one from Agency Car Rental for $30. Unfortunately, they weren't able to deliver, so we had to ride the bus to Forest and Warren and then walk a mile or so to the agency.
The car ran just fine. Drove out 302 and stopped at a little grocery store/filling station. Put gas in the tank and bought sandwiches and stuff for lunch. Highland Lake is surrounded by private property, but there is one public road to the edge of the lake, so we drove down that and ate lunch sitting on a big rock. The lake was beautiful and looked just the way Roy remembered it. He and his brother Ken used to come here with their grandmother to stay in a little cottage his Aunt Madeleine owned. The kids built a raft and poled it down to the lower end of the lake, where they caught bullfrogs. Sometimes, they were able to borrow a rowboat from a neighbor and row it around. Once, they found a bunch of money in an abandoned ice house. They had lots of fun here.
We drove completely around the lake twice, but could only get close to the water in a couple of places. Found what might have been the very cottage Roy used to stay in. It looked a lot like it and was in the right location. As usual, I forgot my camera.
Drove farther out in the country. Stopped at a lovely rest area that was closed, which seems odd. Pumped some good water from an old pump. Relaxed and enjoyed.
Got a little lost returning to the boat, but eventually found it. Went to a super market at a nearby shopping center and loaded up with groceries.
Friday, August 5, 2011
Friday, August 5, 1994 - Portland, Maine
You could have knocked me over with a feather. When I went to the office to pay for another night, the guy said our boat's picture was in the paper. I thought he was joking, but he handed it to me. Sure enough, there was the Jofian on her side! I could scarcely believe my eyes. The local newspaper had actually printed a picture of the Jofian in her humiliating position! It was a good picture, but they had the write-up all wrong. They said she was fifty feet long and from Wilmington, Delaware. They said the Coast Guard sent out a boat to "rescue" us, but the crew had already been taken ashore by a boat from the marina. I phoned the paper and gave them the facts. At no time were we in any danger whatsoever. No one took us ashore. Roy went Royaking, and I sat contentedly on the boat reading until the tide came in. It will be interesting to see if they print a retraction tomorrow.
We also received a surprise from Mother Nature today. We knew that people go to Maine in the summer to cool off, but we weren't prepared for the cooling off we got today. The morning started out sunny and warm, as it had been. We planned on renting a car and driving out to Highland Lake, where Roy spent four or five summers when he was a little boy. I phoned Enterprise to have them deliver a car, but they were overwhelmed with business and said they couldn't deliver today, but if we'd go to the Pine Tree Shopping Center, they'd pick us up there.
Roy and I went to the nearby bus stop and waited. In due course of time, a South Portland bus came along and took us across the bridge to Portland. The fare was only fifty cents apiece, and we got free transfers. A very nice lady in a wheelchair told us where to catch a bus to Pine Tree. It was a different bus company, but they accepted our transfers. We also picked up a bus map and schedule.
While we were waiting for the bus to the shopping center, the sky suddenly got dark, the temperature plummeted, thunder boomed, and rain came down. We had some protection from the rain, but no jackets or umbrellas, so we were glad to get on the bus. The rain was still coming down when we got to the Pine Tree Shopping Center, so we scurried to a nearby Burger King and ate lunch. We decided it wasn't the greatest day to go walking around a lake, so we canceled the car reservation and went bus riding instead. Rode the bus back to town and took a bus that went out past Back Cove into the suburbs. When we returned from that ride, we took another bus to the Maine Mall, which turned out to be a huge shopping center. Wandered around there for a while and bought a few things.
It was getting late and we were getting cold, so we decided to return to the boat. Had a hard time finding the bus stop, but after following the periphery of the mall for a while, we finally saw a bus stop sign. Waited about twenty minutes. We'd no sooner gotten on the Portland bus than we saw a South Portland bus. If we'd known the South Portland bus went to the mall, we could have taken it back instead of going all the way to downtown Portland and then catching another bus to South Portland. We picked up a copy of the South Portland bus map and schedule at the Metro center, so we'll know next time. Luckily, we didn't have to wait for the South Portland bus; it arrived as soon as we reached the stop.
It sure felt good to be back on our nice warm boat. The wind was really howling by then, and rain was still coming down but not very hard. It was so cold, we actually turned on the heater. In August!
We also received a surprise from Mother Nature today. We knew that people go to Maine in the summer to cool off, but we weren't prepared for the cooling off we got today. The morning started out sunny and warm, as it had been. We planned on renting a car and driving out to Highland Lake, where Roy spent four or five summers when he was a little boy. I phoned Enterprise to have them deliver a car, but they were overwhelmed with business and said they couldn't deliver today, but if we'd go to the Pine Tree Shopping Center, they'd pick us up there.
Roy and I went to the nearby bus stop and waited. In due course of time, a South Portland bus came along and took us across the bridge to Portland. The fare was only fifty cents apiece, and we got free transfers. A very nice lady in a wheelchair told us where to catch a bus to Pine Tree. It was a different bus company, but they accepted our transfers. We also picked up a bus map and schedule.
While we were waiting for the bus to the shopping center, the sky suddenly got dark, the temperature plummeted, thunder boomed, and rain came down. We had some protection from the rain, but no jackets or umbrellas, so we were glad to get on the bus. The rain was still coming down when we got to the Pine Tree Shopping Center, so we scurried to a nearby Burger King and ate lunch. We decided it wasn't the greatest day to go walking around a lake, so we canceled the car reservation and went bus riding instead. Rode the bus back to town and took a bus that went out past Back Cove into the suburbs. When we returned from that ride, we took another bus to the Maine Mall, which turned out to be a huge shopping center. Wandered around there for a while and bought a few things.
It was getting late and we were getting cold, so we decided to return to the boat. Had a hard time finding the bus stop, but after following the periphery of the mall for a while, we finally saw a bus stop sign. Waited about twenty minutes. We'd no sooner gotten on the Portland bus than we saw a South Portland bus. If we'd known the South Portland bus went to the mall, we could have taken it back instead of going all the way to downtown Portland and then catching another bus to South Portland. We picked up a copy of the South Portland bus map and schedule at the Metro center, so we'll know next time. Luckily, we didn't have to wait for the South Portland bus; it arrived as soon as we reached the stop.
It sure felt good to be back on our nice warm boat. The wind was really howling by then, and rain was still coming down but not very hard. It was so cold, we actually turned on the heater. In August!
Thursday, August 4, 2011
Thursday, August 4, 1994 - Portland, Maine
After breakfast, we walked across the Million-Dollar Bridge to South Portland and found Marineast. They had a good end tie available, so we rented it. The channel coming in is narrow and shallow, so we can only enter at fairly high tide. High tide this morning was at 9:45. Low will be at 3:35.
On the way back to the boat, Roy stopped at a marine-supply store to look around, and I stopped at the Visitor Information Center to pick up maps and brochures. It was nearly noon when we got to the boat. Since we were tied to the fuel dock, it made sense to get diesel before leaving, so we pulled the boat back twenty or thirty feet to where the hose would reach and filled the tank.
The wind was fairly strong and was blowing us toward the dock, so Roy was worried that we might bump the pilings at the end of the dock on our way out. We stood around for a while, hoping the wind would die down, but it didn't. A man came along and offered to help, so we had him push the center of the boat away from the dock, and we took off, no problem. By then, it was about one o'clock.
We motored across the harbor and into the channel. I was on the deck, getting fenders and lines ready. Roy kept sticking his head out of the cockpit, telling me what to do when we reached the dock. He should have been watching where he was going. All of a sudden, BLOOMP, we were stuck fast in the mud. Roy had overlooked one of the channel markers. He tried to back up but couldn't, and the tide was going out. We were only a few hundred feet from the dock, but there was no way we could get there until the tide went completely out and then came back in again. We figured it would be about seven that evening before we could move.
After an hour or so, the marina manager and another guy came by in a work boat to see if they could help. Roy asked them to carry our anchor out to the channel and drop it. That way, when the tide came in, we wouldn't blow into shallow water. Also, we'd have a way to pull ourselves into the channel. They were very nice and set the anchor right where Roy told them to. They also put out the red ball on the line that's tied to the anchor to facilitate raising the anchor if it gets wedged in.
A little later, a power boat went by and got the line wrapped around its prop. They cut the line away, but apparently the ball had been chewed up by the prop; we never saw it again. Roy tied the other red ball to the line.
As the tide went out, Jofian tilted farther and farther to port. At lowest tide, she was over 37 degrees, much to the amusement of passing boaters. Walking was a major problem, so I sat on the port side and read the brochures I'd picked up yesterday. Roy dropped his Royak in the water and paddled around.
The boat began slowly righting herself around five o'clock. By six, she was upright, and by six-thirty, she was afloat. We pulled up the anchor and motored to the dock.
We like this marina much better than DiMillo's. It's in a quiet residential area instead of a bustling, noisy commercial area. We don't have the awful surge here that we had at DiMillo's, and the scenery is prettier. We can even hear the bugle calls from the Coast Guard base a short distance away. Really neat.
It's only a few blocks to a super market, so while Roy cleaned the anchor chain and hooked up the electricity, I walked to the market and bought some groceries.
On the way back to the boat, Roy stopped at a marine-supply store to look around, and I stopped at the Visitor Information Center to pick up maps and brochures. It was nearly noon when we got to the boat. Since we were tied to the fuel dock, it made sense to get diesel before leaving, so we pulled the boat back twenty or thirty feet to where the hose would reach and filled the tank.
The wind was fairly strong and was blowing us toward the dock, so Roy was worried that we might bump the pilings at the end of the dock on our way out. We stood around for a while, hoping the wind would die down, but it didn't. A man came along and offered to help, so we had him push the center of the boat away from the dock, and we took off, no problem. By then, it was about one o'clock.
We motored across the harbor and into the channel. I was on the deck, getting fenders and lines ready. Roy kept sticking his head out of the cockpit, telling me what to do when we reached the dock. He should have been watching where he was going. All of a sudden, BLOOMP, we were stuck fast in the mud. Roy had overlooked one of the channel markers. He tried to back up but couldn't, and the tide was going out. We were only a few hundred feet from the dock, but there was no way we could get there until the tide went completely out and then came back in again. We figured it would be about seven that evening before we could move.
After an hour or so, the marina manager and another guy came by in a work boat to see if they could help. Roy asked them to carry our anchor out to the channel and drop it. That way, when the tide came in, we wouldn't blow into shallow water. Also, we'd have a way to pull ourselves into the channel. They were very nice and set the anchor right where Roy told them to. They also put out the red ball on the line that's tied to the anchor to facilitate raising the anchor if it gets wedged in.
A little later, a power boat went by and got the line wrapped around its prop. They cut the line away, but apparently the ball had been chewed up by the prop; we never saw it again. Roy tied the other red ball to the line.
As the tide went out, Jofian tilted farther and farther to port. At lowest tide, she was over 37 degrees, much to the amusement of passing boaters. Walking was a major problem, so I sat on the port side and read the brochures I'd picked up yesterday. Roy dropped his Royak in the water and paddled around.
The boat began slowly righting herself around five o'clock. By six, she was upright, and by six-thirty, she was afloat. We pulled up the anchor and motored to the dock.
We like this marina much better than DiMillo's. It's in a quiet residential area instead of a bustling, noisy commercial area. We don't have the awful surge here that we had at DiMillo's, and the scenery is prettier. We can even hear the bugle calls from the Coast Guard base a short distance away. Really neat.
It's only a few blocks to a super market, so while Roy cleaned the anchor chain and hooked up the electricity, I walked to the market and bought some groceries.
Wednesday, August 3, 2011
Wednesday, August 3, 1994 - Portland, Maine
By ten this morning, the fog closed in, even thicker than yesterday. We couldn't see an eighth of a mile, but the radar did our seeing for us. We reached the Portland racon safely but then got sort of lost. One problem was they had changed the number on one of the buoys we were heading for from "2C1" to "12". We kept circling that buoy in dense fog, listening to the foghorns in the distance. Luckily, a Coast Guard cutter came by, heading into the harbor. I talked with them on the VHF and asked if we could follow them in. They said we could, and they slowed down so we could follow. That was very nice of them. We'd have probably been sitting out there in the fog all night if they hadn't come along.
I radioed DiMillo's Marina to arrange for a slip. The guy said it was perfectly clear in the harbor. Roy didn't believe him, but sure enough, as soon as we rounded the point, everything was sunny and beautiful.
The marina looked very crowded and tight, so Roy refused to enter it. They let us tie for the night at the fuel dock. They charged $1.25 a foot plus $3 for electricity plus $1 for a shower! Ridiculous. We'll find another place tomorrow.
Phoned around and found a marina that only charges $1 a foot, including electricity. We were going to walk over there and check it out, but I was too tired from last night, so we went back to the boat and ate supper. Roy went for a walk, but I went to bed at 8:15.
I radioed DiMillo's Marina to arrange for a slip. The guy said it was perfectly clear in the harbor. Roy didn't believe him, but sure enough, as soon as we rounded the point, everything was sunny and beautiful.
The marina looked very crowded and tight, so Roy refused to enter it. They let us tie for the night at the fuel dock. They charged $1.25 a foot plus $3 for electricity plus $1 for a shower! Ridiculous. We'll find another place tomorrow.
Phoned around and found a marina that only charges $1 a foot, including electricity. We were going to walk over there and check it out, but I was too tired from last night, so we went back to the boat and ate supper. Roy went for a walk, but I went to bed at 8:15.
Tuesday, August 2, 2011
Tuesday, August 2, 1994 - On way to Portland, Maine
Weighed anchor at 8 a.m. There was a light breeze out of the southwest, so we were able to raise all the sails, but by noon, fog had closed in and the breeze died to nothing, so we had to take in the sails and motor. Later in the afternoon, the fog lifted, but still no breeze.
We passed the elbow of Cape Cod and headed north to Portland. It's about 160 miles, so it will be an overnighter. I can usually tolerate one night, but more than that and I fold.
We passed the elbow of Cape Cod and headed north to Portland. It's about 160 miles, so it will be an overnighter. I can usually tolerate one night, but more than that and I fold.
Monday, August 1, 2011
Monday, August 1, 1994 - Nantuket
We wanted to use up our Nantucket Historical Association passes today, and Roy wanted to buy a head gasket for the generator engine, so we paddled to Brant Point and walked to town. Phoned around until we found a place that had head gaskets and then walked over there. It was quite a ways, but at least they had the gasket Roy needed.
From there, we walked to the Old Gaol, that was built in 1805. To our amazement, it was still being used as a jail in 1934! It had no electricity, no plumbing, and just wood stoves and fireplaces for heating. The walls were heavily reinforced with metal rods, and the few windows had heavy iron bars. There were two wooden bunks in each of the four cells. It looked like a very uncomfortable place. The last prisoner somehow managed to escape in 1934, so they closed the place down. Now it's an interesting tourist attraction.
We visited the Greater Light Garden, where artists gathered in the 1920's, and the old firehouse that had ancient hand-pumpers. Then we went to the Coffin School, which was built about 150 years ago and is still used for cultural events. There were a lot of paintings of Nantucket on exhibit, and we also watched an interesting video on Admiral Coffin, who donated the school to Nantucket. The woman in charge thought Roy was 45! She didn't look much over 50 herself, but she said she was 70. She really envied us, being able to sail around.
By then it was two o'clock, so we ate some lunch. Went to a different lunch counter this time, but it wasn't as good as Congdon's.
After eating, we went to the Macy-Christian house, which was built in 1746. Then we went to the Quaker Meeting House and hall. They had an exhibit of the most wonderful lightship baskets, both old and new.
Talked with an old man who had lived in Nantucket for many years. He didn't remember Aunty Margarethe's houses, but he suggested we talk with Phil Murray, who has lived in Monomoy since 1951, so we went to Murray's Toggery Shop.
Phil Murray turned out to be a rotund, bald, genial gentleman. He greeted us cordially and told us what he knew. He remembered Aunty Margarethe's green houses and had even bought a rowboat from her for $5. He told us the houses had been torn down, but he didn't remember the year. He tried to phone a number of other people, but no one was home until he phoned his uncle, Franklin Chadwick, who also lives in Monomoy. Chadwick's mother had read a paper on the history of Monomoy a few years ago. I talked with her and learned a lot of interesting things. She told me the roof had blown off one of Aunty Margarethe's houses during the hurricane of 1954, and her linens had blown all over the countryside. Aunty Margarethe had had the roof rebuilt. I hadn't known anything about that. What a terrifying experience that must have been for Aunty Margarethe and John, in that house during a hurricane! But it shows how well built the houses were. They could withstand the force of a hurricane, with only the loss of a roof. It's such a shame that sturdy buildings that could stand through hurricanes were destroyed by man.
Mrs. Chadwick and her son remembered the houses being torn down in the late 50's or early 60's, which agrees with the previous information I had gathered. She didn't have a copy of the paper there in Monomoy, but she said it didn't contain anything about Aunty Margarethe or her houses.
Several people we talked with remembered Aunty Margarethe walking to town with John a few feet behind her. That was quite a walk for people in their eighties--two miles each way. Obviously, Aunty Margarethe was doing fine until John died. He had cooked for her for half a century or more. Aunty Margarethe had always had servants, so she didn't know how to cook for herself. After John died, she starved. One of her friends found her lying unconscious on the floor of her bedroom in 1957. She was rushed to a hospital and restored to health. But then she was declared insane, committed to Butler Hospital, placed under a guardian, and her property was placed under the trusteeship of the Rhode Island Hospital Trust Company, which promptly sold her Nantucket property to Mrs. Elphinstone for $50,000. (A waterfront house not far from where Aunty Margarethe's stood now rents for $35,000 a month!)
I refuse to believe that Aunty Margarethe was actually insane. She was eccentric, but not crazy, although I suppose most people would say a wealthy person who went without eating when she could easily have hired another cook or gone to restaurants has a few missing marbles. I just wish I'd been in Providence then to help her. And I hope she never knew that her beloved Nantucket cottages had been sold to Mrs. Elphinstone and demolished.
Roy and I thanked Mr. Murray, bought some groceries, and returned to the boat. After putting the groceries away, we paddled to the creeks, where Roy salvaged a stainless-steel port light from an old wrecked boat. Then we returned to what had been Aunty Margarethe's property for one last look, probably the last time I'll ever see it. A cottontail rabbit bounded into the bushes, just as his great-great-great granddaddy did when I was a child. The houses now exist only in my memory, but what golden memories! The happiest days of my childhood were spent there. Even if the houses were still standing, it wouldn't be the same. Aunty Margarethe wouldn't be there; John wouldn't be there; Daddy wouldn't be there; I wouldn't be a child. Everything changes. But cottontail bunnies still hop across the yard.
(Yes you have read from Phil Murray turned out to be rotund to the cottontail bunnies before, it did not make sense on the July 16 post, all of a sudden Phil Murray was there after they went to bed, I wondered, but what do I know, I just copy and paste, but this obviously does belong on today's log, it fits much better.)
From there, we walked to the Old Gaol, that was built in 1805. To our amazement, it was still being used as a jail in 1934! It had no electricity, no plumbing, and just wood stoves and fireplaces for heating. The walls were heavily reinforced with metal rods, and the few windows had heavy iron bars. There were two wooden bunks in each of the four cells. It looked like a very uncomfortable place. The last prisoner somehow managed to escape in 1934, so they closed the place down. Now it's an interesting tourist attraction.
We visited the Greater Light Garden, where artists gathered in the 1920's, and the old firehouse that had ancient hand-pumpers. Then we went to the Coffin School, which was built about 150 years ago and is still used for cultural events. There were a lot of paintings of Nantucket on exhibit, and we also watched an interesting video on Admiral Coffin, who donated the school to Nantucket. The woman in charge thought Roy was 45! She didn't look much over 50 herself, but she said she was 70. She really envied us, being able to sail around.
By then it was two o'clock, so we ate some lunch. Went to a different lunch counter this time, but it wasn't as good as Congdon's.
After eating, we went to the Macy-Christian house, which was built in 1746. Then we went to the Quaker Meeting House and hall. They had an exhibit of the most wonderful lightship baskets, both old and new.
Talked with an old man who had lived in Nantucket for many years. He didn't remember Aunty Margarethe's houses, but he suggested we talk with Phil Murray, who has lived in Monomoy since 1951, so we went to Murray's Toggery Shop.
Phil Murray turned out to be a rotund, bald, genial gentleman. He greeted us cordially and told us what he knew. He remembered Aunty Margarethe's green houses and had even bought a rowboat from her for $5. He told us the houses had been torn down, but he didn't remember the year. He tried to phone a number of other people, but no one was home until he phoned his uncle, Franklin Chadwick, who also lives in Monomoy. Chadwick's mother had read a paper on the history of Monomoy a few years ago. I talked with her and learned a lot of interesting things. She told me the roof had blown off one of Aunty Margarethe's houses during the hurricane of 1954, and her linens had blown all over the countryside. Aunty Margarethe had had the roof rebuilt. I hadn't known anything about that. What a terrifying experience that must have been for Aunty Margarethe and John, in that house during a hurricane! But it shows how well built the houses were. They could withstand the force of a hurricane, with only the loss of a roof. It's such a shame that sturdy buildings that could stand through hurricanes were destroyed by man.
Mrs. Chadwick and her son remembered the houses being torn down in the late 50's or early 60's, which agrees with the previous information I had gathered. She didn't have a copy of the paper there in Monomoy, but she said it didn't contain anything about Aunty Margarethe or her houses.
Several people we talked with remembered Aunty Margarethe walking to town with John a few feet behind her. That was quite a walk for people in their eighties--two miles each way. Obviously, Aunty Margarethe was doing fine until John died. He had cooked for her for half a century or more. Aunty Margarethe had always had servants, so she didn't know how to cook for herself. After John died, she starved. One of her friends found her lying unconscious on the floor of her bedroom in 1957. She was rushed to a hospital and restored to health. But then she was declared insane, committed to Butler Hospital, placed under a guardian, and her property was placed under the trusteeship of the Rhode Island Hospital Trust Company, which promptly sold her Nantucket property to Mrs. Elphinstone for $50,000. (A waterfront house not far from where Aunty Margarethe's stood now rents for $35,000 a month!)
I refuse to believe that Aunty Margarethe was actually insane. She was eccentric, but not crazy, although I suppose most people would say a wealthy person who went without eating when she could easily have hired another cook or gone to restaurants has a few missing marbles. I just wish I'd been in Providence then to help her. And I hope she never knew that her beloved Nantucket cottages had been sold to Mrs. Elphinstone and demolished.
Roy and I thanked Mr. Murray, bought some groceries, and returned to the boat. After putting the groceries away, we paddled to the creeks, where Roy salvaged a stainless-steel port light from an old wrecked boat. Then we returned to what had been Aunty Margarethe's property for one last look, probably the last time I'll ever see it. A cottontail rabbit bounded into the bushes, just as his great-great-great granddaddy did when I was a child. The houses now exist only in my memory, but what golden memories! The happiest days of my childhood were spent there. Even if the houses were still standing, it wouldn't be the same. Aunty Margarethe wouldn't be there; John wouldn't be there; Daddy wouldn't be there; I wouldn't be a child. Everything changes. But cottontail bunnies still hop across the yard.
(Yes you have read from Phil Murray turned out to be rotund to the cottontail bunnies before, it did not make sense on the July 16 post, all of a sudden Phil Murray was there after they went to bed, I wondered, but what do I know, I just copy and paste, but this obviously does belong on today's log, it fits much better.)
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